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Dutton names future Aussie towns for nuclear power plant locations

Peter Dutton has unveiled a series of locations where he wants to build nuclear power plants if he wins the next federal election. The leader of the opposition has pledged to build at least two nuclear plants between 2035 and 2037 if the Liberal party is elected, with another five on the list to be constructed at a later date. The locations include Gladstone in Queensland, the Liddell power station in the Hunter Valley of NSW, as well as Lithgow in the NSW Central Tablelands, Loy Yang in the La Trobe Valley, Victoria, Callide in Queensland, Muja in Western Australia and Port Augusta in South Australia. The proposal would see the nuclear power plants owned by the government under the same set up as entities such as the Snowy Hydro scheme, in a bid to focus on alternative energy solutions and remain committed to reaching net zero emissions by 2050. Despite Dutton's enthusiasm about the pitch, treasurer Jim Chalmers slammed the idea as “economically irrational” and “fiscally irresponsible.” “Peter Dutton’s nuclear negativity is economic insanity, pure and simple,’’ he said on ABC radio. “Nuclear takes longer, it costs more, and it will squander Australia’s unique combination of advantages. It is the worst combination of economic and ideological stupidity. “It is economically irrational, it is fiscally irresponsible. And it means if it’s implemented, Australia would fail that grab these vast economic and industrial opportunities with a net zero transformation in the most effective way." Image credits: DEAN LEWINS/EPA-EFE/Shutterstock Editorial/Shutterstock

Travel Trouble

We looked at 700 plant-based foods to see how healthy they really are. Here’s what we found

<a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/laura-marchese-1271636">Laura Marchese</a>, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/deakin-university-757">Deakin University</a> and <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/katherine-livingstone-324808">Katherine Livingstone</a>, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/deakin-university-757">Deakin University</a> If you’re thinking about buying plant-based foods, a trip to the supermarket can leave you bewildered. There are plant-based burgers, sausages and mince. The fridges are loaded with non-dairy milk, cheese and yoghurt. Then there are the tins of beans and packets of tofu. But how much is actually healthy? Our nutritional audit of more than 700 plant-based foods for sale in Australian supermarkets has just been <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0889157524000516">published</a>. We found some products are so high in salt or saturated fat, we’d struggle to call them “healthy”. <h2>We took (several) trips to the supermarket</h2> In 2022, we visited two of each of four major supermarket retailers across Melbourne to collect information on the available range of plant-based alternatives to meat and dairy products. We took pictures of the products and their nutrition labels. We then analysed the nutrition information on the packaging of more than 700 of these products. This included 236 meat substitutes, 169 legumes and pulses, 50 baked beans, 157 dairy milk substitutes, 52 cheese substitutes and 40 non-dairy yoghurts. <h2>Plant-based meats were surprisingly salty</h2> We found a wide range of plant-based meats for sale. So, it’s not surprising we found large variations in their nutrition content. Sodium, found in added salt and which contributes to <a href="https://www.heartfoundation.org.au/bundles/healthy-living-and-eating/salt-and-heart-health">high blood pressure</a>, was our greatest concern. The sodium content varied from 1 milligram per 100 grams in products such as tofu, to 2,000mg per 100g in items such as plant-based mince products. This means we could eat our entire <a href="https://www.betterhealth.vic.gov.au/health/healthyliving/salt">daily recommended sodium intake</a> in just one bowl of plant-based mince. An <a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/09637486.2022.2137786">audit</a> of 66 plant-based meat products in Australian supermarkets conducted in 2014 found sodium ranged from 316mg in legume-based products to 640mg in tofu products, per 100g. In a <a href="https://www.mdpi.com/2072-6643/11/11/2603">2019 audit</a> of 137 products, the range was up to 1,200mg per 100g. In other words, the results of our audit seems to show a consistent trend of plant-based meats <a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/09637486.2022.2137786">getting saltier</a>. <h2>What about plant-based milks?</h2> Some 70% of the plant-based milks we audited were fortified with calcium, a nutrient important for <a href="https://www.betterhealth.vic.gov.au/health/healthyliving/calcium">bone health</a>. This is good news as a <a href="https://www.mdpi.com/2072-6643/12/5/1254">2019-2020 audit</a> of 115 plant-based milks from Melbourne and Sydney found only 43% of plant-based milks were fortified with calcium. Of the fortified milks in our audit, almost three-quarters (73%) contained the <a href="https://www.eatforhealth.gov.au/food-essentials/five-food-groups/milk-yoghurt-cheese-andor-their-alternatives-mostly-reduced-fat">recommended amount of calcium</a> – at least 100mg per 100mL. We also looked at the saturated fat content of plant-based milks. Coconut-based milks had on average up to six times higher saturated fat content than almond, oat or soy milks. <a href="https://www.mdpi.com/2072-6643/12/5/1254">Previous audits</a> also found coconut-based milks were much higher in saturated fat than all other categories of milks. <h2>A first look at cheese and yoghurt alternatives</h2> Our audit is the first study to identify the range of cheese and yoghurt alternatives available in Australian supermarkets. Calcium was only labelled on a third of plant-based yoghurts, and only 20% of supermarket options met the recommended 100mg of calcium per 100g. For plant-based cheeses, most (92%) were not fortified with calcium. Their sodium content varied from 390mg to 1,400mg per 100g, and saturated fat ranged from 0g to 28g per 100g. <h2>So, what should we consider when shopping?</h2> As a general principle, try to choose whole plant foods, such as unprocessed legumes, beans or tofu. These foods are packed with vitamins and minerals. They’re also high in dietary fibre, which is good for your gut health and keeps you fuller for longer. If opting for a processed plant-based food, here are five tips for choosing a healthier option. 1. Watch the sodium Plant-based meat alternatives can be high in sodium, so look for products that have <a href="https://www.eatforhealth.gov.au/eating-well/how-understand-food-labels/food-labels-what-look">around</a> 150-250mg sodium per 100g. 2. Pick canned beans and legumes Canned chickpeas, lentils and beans can be healthy and low-cost <a href="https://www.heartfoundation.org.au/getmedia/71522940-decf-436a-ba44-cd890dc18036/Meat-Free-Recipe-Booklet.pdf">additions to many meals</a>. Where you can, choose canned varieties with no added salt, especially when buying baked beans. 3. Add herbs and spices to your tofu Tofu can be a great alternative to meat. Check the label and pick the option with the highest calcium content. We found flavoured tofu was higher in salt and sugar content than minimally processed tofu. So it’s best to pick an unflavoured option and add your own flavours with spices and herbs. 4. Check the calcium When choosing a non-dairy alternative to milk, such as those made from soy, oat, or rice, check it is fortified with calcium. A good alternative to traditional dairy will have at least 100mg of calcium per 100g. 5. Watch for saturated fat If looking for a lower saturated fat option, almond, soy, rice and oat varieties of milk and yoghurt alternatives have much lower saturated fat content than coconut options. Pick those with less than 3g per 100g.<img style="border: none !important; box-shadow: none !important; margin: 0 !important; max-height: 1px !important; max-width: 1px !important; min-height: 1px !important; min-width: 1px !important; opacity: 0 !important; outline: none !important; padding: 0 !important;" src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/222991/count.gif?distributor=republish-lightbox-basic" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" /> <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/laura-marchese-1271636">Laura Marchese</a>, PhD Student at the Institute for Physical Activity and Nutrition, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/deakin-university-757">Deakin University</a> and <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/katherine-livingstone-324808">Katherine Livingstone</a>, NHMRC Emerging Leadership Fellow and Senior Research Fellow at the Institute for Physical Activity and Nutrition, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/deakin-university-757">Deakin University</a> Image credits: Getty Images This article is republished from <a href="https://theconversation.com">The Conversation</a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the <a href="https://theconversation.com/we-looked-at-700-plant-based-foods-to-see-how-healthy-they-really-are-heres-what-we-found-222991">original article</a>.

Food & Wine

These 7 genius hacks will revive almost any plant

Look for signs of life If your plant has turned brown and lost some leaves, don’t give up on it just yet. There is hope that you can revive a dead plant if the plant still has a few green leaves and pliable stems – buds are a sure sign too. Melinda Meyers, star and producer of Melinda’s Garden Moment TV and radio segments, says that reviving a plant takes patience (sometimes even years). Think about the water Plants that are over-watered appear wilted and may have brown or yellow leaves that make it look dead but with very moist soil. By contrast, if you have forgotten to water your plants, the leaves will be brown but dried around the edges or curled up. Master gardener, Kristena LaMar, says that if you suspect over-watering is the cause of your plant’s demise, repot your plant in dry dirt. And if your plant is thirsty, water it! However, hold off on fertilising until the plant is in better health. Meyers warns that, “Fertilising a struggling plant can injure the tender roots of a recovering plant.” Consider your lighting situation If you recently moved your plant to a new spot, it’s possible it’s no longer getting enough light. Even if you didn’t move it, it’s possible its lighting situation changed. Did you recently buy heavier drapes? Plant a tree outside that’s now blocking the indoor sunlight? Try moving your plant to a sunnier window if it needs a lot of light. (Same goes with a plant that’s now getting too much sun; try a different location in your home.) Find a humid spot Plants absorb water through leaves as well as roots. So keep your plant in a humid spot that’s not too sunny and not too dry to help it recover. Feed your plant carefully People and pets aren’t the only things in your house that need food; plants can get malnourished, too. (Signs are discoloured leaves or slow or no growth.) Meyers recommends a fertiliser/nutritional supplement. Depending on the nutritional deficiency, providing the nutrition can help the plant recover nearly immediately within days. Other deficiencies may take longer – as in weeks – while others are chronic and may not ever fully recover, although these are rare with houseplants. IV for plants Another option for malnourished plants is a water-soluble fertiliser that will slowly release nutrients and is less likely to burn your plant’s roots. Add it to the watering can before watering plants. Only use fertiliser during the time when your plant should be growing. Over-fertilising or using the wrong fertiliser can burn the roots of the plant. Compost If you’ve tried everything, and your plant still can’t be revived, it might be time to let go. By composting your plants, the remains can be recycled as nutrient-rich dirt that can help your next houseplant thrive. Don’t beat yourself up – and next time buy a hearty, nearly kill-proof cactus. Image credits: Getty Images This article originally appeared on <a href="https://www.readersdigest.com.au/food-home-garden/7-hacks-that-will-revive-almost-any-plant" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Reader's Digest</a>.

Home & Garden

Sapling planted at Sycamore Gap to "restore hope" removed by National Trust

UK resident Kieran Chapman, 27, is "absolutely gutted" after the sapling he planted in memory of the<a href="https://www.oversixty.com.au/finance/legal/you-can-t-forgive-that-teen-arrested-after-felling-of-iconic-200-year-old-tree" target="_blank" rel="noopener"> felled Sycamore Gap tree</a> was heartbreakingly removed by National Trust. The 27-year-old spent hours on Friday planting the sapling just metres away from the stump of the iconic Sycamore Gap tree, but his efforts were in vain, as the sapling had been dug up by the National Trust on Sunday morning. The conservation charity said that they had to remove the sapling because it is a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site. A National Trust spokesperson told the Newcastle Chronicle that while they understand “the strength of feeling following the events at Sycamore Gap” the site “is a scheduled ancient monument and a globally important archaeological setting, with UNESCO world heritage designation”. “Altering or adding to it can damage the archaeology, and is unlawful without prior consent from government.” But Chapman couldn't hide his disappointment: “It’s just devastating, isn’t it? It genuinely brought people a lot of joy and that’s been taken away," he told the publication. “I honestly thought if it got a good response they might end up keeping it.” Chapman planted the sapling because he wanted to “restore people’s faith in humanity, bring a smile back to people’s faces and just give them a bit of hope”. “I planned to go and take the dog for a walk next weekend there," he added. In a follow up post on Facebook, Chapman added that he was told by the National Trust that his tree will be replanted on another piece of land at the Housesteads Visitor Centre on Hadrian’s Wall. “Too many politics around all this for my liking, the top and bottom of it, it’s a tree, planted in soil. I understand the land is protected, but to protect a tree from being planted in the earth, where they’re designed to be, no matter where it’s location, is crazy,” he wrote. Two people were arrested over the incident, a 16-year-old boy and 69-year-old former lumberjack. Both have been released on bail, with the lumberjack insisting that he had no involvement in the felling. “You’ve got the wrong feller,” he told The Sun. “I’m a former lumberjack and I’ve just been kicked off my property so I can see why people have pointed the finger. “My brother came down to make sure I hadn’t been arrested as he had heard a rumour that I had cut it down. I didn’t do it," he added. Images: Getty/ Facebook

Travel Trouble

8 mind-boggling facts about your favourite flowers and plants

We’ve found some fun, quirky and downright mind-boggling facts about our favourite flowers and plants. 1. A sunflower is not just one flower. Each head is composed of hundreds of tiny flowers, called florets, held together on a single seed. This is the case for all plants in the sunflower family, including daises. 2. Apples, pears, peaches, cherries, raspberries, strawberries and more are actually in the rose family, making them cousins to the long-stemmed flower of love. 3. During the 1600s, tulips were so valuable in Holland that their bulbs were worth more than gold. No wonder the Netherlands is known for their tulips! 4. Bamboo is the fasted-growing woody plant in the world. The current Guinness World Record title is held by a certain species of the 45 genera of bamboo, which have been found to grow at up to 91 cm per day or at a rate of 0.00003 km/h. 5. Strawberries are the only fruit that bears its seeds on the outside. It has on average 200 seeds. 6. The oldest known flower was discovered in 2002, in northeast China. The flower, named archaefructus sinensis, bloomed around 125 million years ago and resembles a water lily. 7. The titan arum is the world’s largest flower. The circumference of the flower can be over three metres and a single leaf can grow to the size of a small tree. However, it smells horribly like rotten flesh, earning its nickname of corpse flower. 8. You can change the colour of your hydrangeas by altering the pH level of the soil. Alkaline soil will create pinker blooms, while a more acidic soil will produce blue blooms. Image credit: Instagram Related links: <a href="../lifestyle/gardening/2015/05/gardening-and-soil-ph/">What you need to know about your soil’s pH levels</a> <a href="../lifestyle/gardening/2015/05/over60-community-gardens-part-4/">Take a look inside the beautiful gardens of the Over60 community</a> <a href="../lifestyle/gardening/2015/06/attracting-birds-to-the-garden/">Top tips for attracting birds to the garden</a>

Home & Garden

6 best screening hedge plant

<h4>Lillipilly</h4> With its dense screen and fast growing habit, lillipilly can grow up to eight metres tall but should be pruned to thicken the foliage. The Syzygium smithii variety is commonly known as ‘Neighbours Be Gone’. <h4>Juniper</h4> A conifer such as Juniperas spartan is an excellent choice due to its dense evergreen dark blue-green coloured foliage. This column-shaped hardy plant grows to three metres in 10 years and no trimming or pruning is required. <h4>Camellia</h4> Camellias come in two main varieties, japonica and sasanqua. For hedging, the sasanqua is the preferred choice with its faster growing habit, smaller leaves and better sun tolerance. The flowers in autumn are an added bonus. <h4>Photinia</h4> Photinias come in larger and smaller leaf varieties with the smaller leaf types more suitable for hedges up to two metres. With an overall deep green leaf appearance, the new growth comes as striking red foliage. <h4>Murraya</h4> A great alternative to box hedges with a somewhat similar texture but lighter green leaves, murraya is fast growing and easy to care for, with a pretty flush of orange blossom scented flowers in spring and summer. <h4>English Box</h4> Box is the most popular choice for hedging and is the best choice for a more formal look. Its slow growing tendency means it will not provide privacy for several years, but the bonus is it’s easy to maintain. Image credit: Shutterstock This article originally appeared on <a href="https://www.readersdigest.com.au/gardening-tips/best-screening-hedge-plants" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Reader's Digest</a>.

Home & Garden

How to decorate with indoor plants

If you want to add colour and freshness to your home, why not bring the outdoors in with some strategically placed indoor plants. Not sure where to start? Follow our tips to make the task simple and stylish. <ul> <li>Buy the best pot you can afford – it really does add the wow factor when you see a plant inside in a fabulous pot. In the same way, a great plant will lose its pizzazz if it is housed in a dull or cheap looking pot.</li> <li>Stay in fashion – always choose plants that won’t go out of fashion, even if you change your décor. Your local garden centre is a good source of information on the best plants for your climate.</li> <li>Keep your options open – there’s actually no need to pot your plant into your new pot. Just sit the plant inside and cover the top with stones or coconut fibre. This means you can easily move it around if you find it’s not working in its current home.</li> <li>Liven up your space – choose a plant that is an unusual colour or has an interesting leaf shape. </li> <li>Don’t go overboard – it’s best not to put too many plants in one area. Keep it simple.</li> <li>If in doubt, throw it out – if your plant starts to look a bit tired or sick it’s best to remove it from the indoors and try to revive it outside. You can easily replace it with a new plant for inside – after all it’s still cheaper than a bunch of flowers.</li> </ul> Related links: <a href="../lifestyle/at-home/2015/07/fragrant-plants-for-home/">5 plants that will keep your home smelling lovely</a> <a href="../lifestyle/at-home/2015/08/coat-hanger-hacks/">Genius things you didn’t know you could do with coat hangers</a> <a href="../lifestyle/at-home/2015/07/bathroom-storage-solutions/">7 creative storage solutions for your bathroom</a> Image credit: Shutterstock

Home Hints & Tips

Learn to think like a plant: four questions to think about if you want to keep your houseplants healthy

You don’t drown by falling into the water; you drown by staying there (Edwin Louis Cole). I’d say most potted orchid deaths arise from drowned roots. Conversely, I’ve seen people desiccate cacti believing they don’t need water. True, I scarcely water mine for six months in the year, but in high summer I water them weekly. My potted orchids instead enjoy a good shower all year round. Houseplants all have their likes and dislikes. But once you know the rules of thumb, there are few homes in which you can’t grow a plant well. I’m a botanist and my work takes me all over the world in pursuit of plants. Seeing a plant in the wild helps you understand how it is adapted to a given environment and how you can recreate that environment in your home. When I bring a new plant into my home, I ask: how would you grow in nature? And where would you be happiest? The roots of <a href="https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/phalaenopsis/growing-guide">Phalaenopsis</a> (a popular indoor orchid) cling to tree branches in the wild. An orchid’s roots need air around them and they cannot withstand sitting in water. But showering the orchid regularly and allowing the water to drain freely mimics a tropical rainstorm, so it suits the plant perfectly. In a rainforest in the Philippines, I once saw an <a href="https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/912/alocasia/details">Alocasia</a> (a popular foliage plant with striking veins) growing just metres from a <a href="https://www.rhsplants.co.uk/plants/_/asplenium-nidus/classid.2000028174/">bird’s-nest-fern</a> (another houseplant with glossy green fronds). The Alocasia was growing on the shady forest floor and the bird’s-nest-fern was sprouting from the fork of a tree above it. The Alocasia likes filtered light, and much like orchids, the bird’s-nest-fern enjoys good drainage. To grow a houseplant well, you must learn to think like a plant. So, here are my top tips for keeping your houseplants healthy. <h2>1. Where should your plant go?</h2> There’s a bewildering variety of plants available now that <a href="https://nph.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/ppp3.10257">houseplants are taking over our homes</a>. But it’s good to remember the old adage “right plant, right place”. It’s no good growing a cactus in a shady corner – it simply won’t work. Start with the conditions you have in your home and go from there. A bright, humid place such as a kitchen or bathroom windowsill is perfect for most tropical or subtropical houseplants. <a href="https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/cacti-succulents">Cacti and succulents</a>, which are adapted to live in deserts, instead need as much sunlight as possible all year round. Many houseplants also thrive on a spell outdoors – typically from June to August. I place my succulents outside against a warm wall during summer. But avoid moving a plant into full sun too quickly. Even a <a href="https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/banana/growing-guide">banana plant</a>, which flourishes under tropical sun, can scorch if you change its conditions too abruptly. <h2>2. When and how should you water?</h2> Plants generally prefer liberal watering in the summer months when they’re growing actively, and far less in the winter. Taking this to extremes, I keep cacti and succulents in an unheated greenhouse and do not water them at all from October to April. Desert nights are cold, so many of these plants are surprisingly cold-hardy when dry. By contrast, I keep a large <a href="https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/140276/monstera/details">Swiss cheese plant</a> in a shady corner, and water it fortnightly in winter and weekly in summer. Like people, it thrives on routine. But even then, it’s important to water all of your plants with lukewarm – and never cold – water. This enhances absorption and avoids temperature-shock. Using body temperature (37℃) water is a good rule of thumb. Carnivorous plants, such as the <a href="https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/5893/i-dionaea-muscipula-i/details">Venus flytrap</a>, that derive their nutrients from trapping and consuming insects instead need rain. They hate tap water. <h2>3. Should you feed them?</h2> Most houseplants will plod along with little or no supplementary plant food (such as a liquid fertiliser). But some, including foliage plants like <a href="https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/95720/ficus-elastica/details">rubber figs</a> and Swiss cheese plants, will prosper if you do decide to feed them. This is best given in the summer months when the plants are growing actively. I use tomato feed for just about all my houseplants in the summer. But the feed is very diluted for some plants, such as orchids, that can be sensitive to over-feeding. Tomato feed for houseplants isn’t conventional but it works for me. Garden centres instead sell concentrated liquid feed specific for potted houseplants. <h2>4. When to repot?</h2> Many houseplants can withstand the same pot for a surprisingly long time, especially slow and steady growers like cacti. But if you keep foliage plants in warm conditions – particularly in homes with underfloor heating – they’re likely to need repotting regularly to avoid drying out. When repotting, choose one or two pot sizes up. This allows for root space, but avoids an excess of stagnant compost. It’s also important to use the right compost. Most plants do well in multipurpose compost – but not all. Orchids prefer “orchid bark” that provides drainage and allows plenty of air around the roots. Carnivorous plants require specialist compost because they object to the high concentrations of nutrients formulated in multipurpose. And keep things green by avoiding peat – destroying peat bogs to make garden compost <a href="https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10113-022-01900-8">is environmentally damaging</a>. To allow your houseplants to flourish further, top-dress your pots with grit or shingle. This will keep <a href="https://www.rhs.org.uk/biodiversity/fungus-gnats">fungus gnats</a> (those pesky little black flies) at bay. People often tell me they struggle to keep their houseplants alive. But keeping a thriving indoor thicket need not be difficult. Learning which plants to choose, how best to water and feed them, and how regularly they need repotting will all help to keep your indoor plants healthy. Image credits: Getty Images This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/learn-to-think-like-a-plant-five-questions-to-think-about-if-you-want-to-keep-your-houseplants-healthy-204291" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>.

Home & Garden

What To Plant For An Impressive Winter Garden

In some areas of Australia and New Zealand, winter is a season of ample rainfall and cool temperatures that can be enjoyed in the company of numerous garden plants. Although many plants slip into dormancy where winters are mild, there are plenty of evergreen trees, shrubs and perennials, as well as hardy annuals, that will keep the garden vibrantly alive with greenery and flowers through the slow season. The right time to landscape? If you are developing a new landscape, winter may not be slow at all. I n many mild-winter climates, autumn is the preferred planting season for perennials and evergreens, both large and small. When planted in the autumn, these plants will benefit from the cool temperatures and winter rains. By the time the hot weather returns the following summer, they are comfortably settled in with strong, deep roots established in the soil. In addition, autumn is the best time for dividing some perennials, such as daylilies, which can become crowded if they have spent several years in the same spot. When divided at the appropriate time, they will be well rooted and ready to bloom when spring arrives. The tyranny of the lawn The main feature of many gardens is a lush, green lawn. In warm climates, warm-season grasses, such as couch, buffalo and kikuyu, are the favoured grasses. During spring, summer and autumn, these lawns are green expanses that demand regular mowing, watering and lots of fertiliser. As the weather cools, warm-season grasses will wind down and may become dormant. In areas that experience winter frosts, warm-season lawns are liable to turn brown and lifeless with the first frost. While some varieties claim to hold their green colour through winter (including ‘Wintergreen’ couch and ‘Sir Walter’ buffalo), most warm-season grasses languish between dull green and straw colour. Some buffalo lawns may develop a crimson tinge, which can be removed by mowing in late autumn or early winter. If the thought of a brown lawn over winter is unappealing, it can be disguised under a blanket of green by oversowing it in autumn with cool-season grass seed such as rye or tall fescue. In climates with cold to mild winters and mild summers, cool-season grasses are the preferred choice for lawns, provided adequate water is available. These lawns demand lots of summer watering, but become lush and green in winter, and provide a pleasant green contrast to the bare branches of deciduous trees and shrubs. As the winter draws to an end, they are often starred with English daisies. Willing winter bloomers If you have acid soil and partial or filtered shade to accommodate them, camellias can be counted upon to colour up winter in mild climates. Sasanqua camellias lead the show with their first flowers opening in late summer and progressing through autumn into early winter. In late autumn and winter, the japonica camellias feature, with varieties opening progressively until spring. Camellias are a good choice for an evergreen hedge, or can be the central feature of your winter garden. For extra interest, edge with other winter-flowering plants such as pansies and primulas, or early-flowering jonquils and narcissus. In mild-winter climates gardens can be a mass of flowers with careful planning. In sunny spots, deciduous magnolias are stunning as they come into bloom in late winter while their branches are still bare. The display lasts into early spring as the leaves appear. Surround them with Marguerite daisies, African daisies and narcissus for a breath of spring in winter. In some areas of Australia and New Zealand, winter is a season of ample rainfall and cool temperatures that can be enjoyed in the company of numerous garden plants. Although many plants slip into dormancy where winters are mild, there are plenty of evergreen trees, shrubs and perennials, as well as hardy annuals, that will keep the garden vibrantly alive with greenery and flowers through the slow season. Colourful winter annuals In any mild-winter climate, there are lots of cold-hardy annuals waiting to be discovered for wintertime entertainment. Consider planting dusty miller, dianthus, ornamental kale, poppies, pansies and snapdragons. You can find them in garden centres in punnets from autumn onwards. They may not bloom much during the shortest days of winter, but will provide great colour again in early spring. When in doubt about the staying power of not-quite-hardy plants, such as snapdragons, plant them in a sheltered place. A wall or building can absorb heat during the day and radiate warmth to nearby plants at night. Such a sheltered spot also helps to protect plants from being damaged by harsh winter winds or frosts. In mild-winter climates, planning and preparation for the spring and summer garden continues through the colder months. In frost-free climates, make the most of the cool conditions to prepare new garden beds, or rework and replant existing ones. In subtropical areas, spring comes early in the garden as petunias and annual phlox burst into bloom. These annuals can be started in winter as seeds or seedlings. In all areas, you can keep winter and spring annuals such as pansies and sweet peas blooming for many months by regularly picking or deadheading spent flowers. The application of a fortnightly dose of liquid fertiliser will also help to keep your annuals growing and blooming well. What to look for: Compact plantings A mild winter usually means a long summer is ahead, giving you time to grow both cool-season and warm-season annuals. When looking into a design, group pansies, primulas and other cool-season annuals close together so that nearby permanent plants won’t be disturbed when you pull them up and replace them with summer annuals. Image credit: Shutterstock This article originally appeared on <a href="https://www.readersdigest.com.au/gardening-tips/what-plant-impressive-winter-garden" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Reader's Digest</a>.

Home & Garden

Attention plant killers: new research shows your plants could be silently screaming at you

If you’re like me, you’ve managed to kill even the hardiest of indoor plants (yes, despite a doctorate in plant biology). But imagine a world where your plants actually told you exactly when they needed watering. This thought, as it turns out, may not be so silly after all. You might be familiar with the growing body of work that <a href="https://theconversation.com/heard-it-on-the-grapevine-the-mysterious-chatter-of-plants-6292">provides evidence for</a> plants being able to sense sounds around them. Now, new research suggests they can also generate airborne sounds in response to stress (such as from drought, or being cut). A team led by experts at Tel Aviv University has shown tomato and tobacco plants, among others, not only make sounds, but do so loudly enough for other creatures to hear. Their findings, <a href="https://www.cell.com/cell/fulltext/S0092-8674(23)00262-3">published today</a> in the journal Cell, are helping us tune into the rich acoustic world of plants – one that plays out all round us, yet never quite within human earshot. <h2>Plants can listen, but now they can talk!</h2> Plants are “sessile” organisms. They can’t run away from stressors such as herbivores or drought. Instead, they’ve evolved complex biochemical responses and the ability to dynamically alter their growth (and regrow body parts) in response to environmental signals including light, gravity, temperature, touch, and volatile chemicals produced by surrounding organisms. These signals help them maximise their growth and reproductive success, prepare for and resist stress, and form mutually beneficial relationships with other organisms such as fungi and bacteria. In 2019, <a href="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/science/article/flowers-can-hear-bees-and-make-their-nectar-sweeter">researchers showed</a> the buzzing of bees can cause plants to produce sweeter nectar. Others <a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/15592324.2017.1368938">have shown</a> white noise played to Arabidopsis, a flowering plant in the mustard family, can trigger a drought response. Now, a team led by Lilach Hadany, who also led the aforementioned bee-nectar study, has recorded airborne sounds produced by tomato and tobacco plants, and five other species (grapevine, henbit deadnettle, pincushion cactus, maize and wheat). These sounds were ultrasonic, in the range of 20-100 kilohertz, and therefore can’t be detected <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK10924/">by human ears</a>. <h2>Stressed plants chatter more</h2> To carry out their research, the team placed microphones 10cm from plant stems that were either exposed to drought (less than 5% soil moisture) or had been severed near the soil. They then compared the recorded sounds to those of unstressed plants, as well as empty pots, and found stressed plants emitted significantly more sounds than unstressed plants. In a cool addition to their paper, they also included a soundbite of a recording, downsampled to an audible range and sped up. The result is a distinguishable “pop” sound. The number of pops increased as drought stress increased (before starting to decline as the plant dried up). Moreover, the sounds could be detected from a distance of 3-5 metres – suggesting potential for long-range communication. <h2>But what actually causes these sounds?</h2> While this remains unconfirmed, the team’s findings suggest that “cavitation” may be at least partially responsible for the sounds. Cavitation is the process through which air bubbles expand and burst inside a plant’s water-conducting tissue, or “xylem”. This explanation makes sense if we consider that drought stress and cutting will both alter the water dynamics in a plant stem. Regardless of the mechanism, it seems the sounds produced by stressed plants were informative. Using machine learning algorithms, the researchers could distinguish not only which species produced the sound, but also what type of stress it was suffering from. It remains to be seen whether and how these sound signals might be involved in plant-to-plant communication or plant-to-environment communication. The research has so far failed to detect any sounds from the woody stems of woody species (which includes many tree species), although they could detect sounds from non-woody parts of a grapevine (a woody species). <h2>What could it mean for ecology, and us?</h2> It’s temping to speculate these airborne sounds could help plants communicate their stress more widely. Could this form of communication help plants, and perhaps wider ecosystems, adapt better to change? Or perhaps the sounds are used by other organisms to detect a plant’s health status. Moths, for example, hear within the ultrasonic range and lay their eggs on leaves, as the researchers point out. Then there’s the question of whether such findings could help with future food production. The <a href="https://www.agriculture.gov.au/sites/default/files/sitecollectiondocuments/abares/publications/Outlook2012FoodDemand2050.pdf">global demand</a> for food will only rise. Tailoring water use to target individual plants or sections of field making the most “noise” could help us more sustainably intensify production and minimise waste. For me personally, if someone could give a microphone to my neglected veggie patch and have the notifications sent to my phone, that would be much appreciated! Image credits: Getty Images This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/attention-plant-killers-new-research-shows-your-plants-could-be-silently-screaming-at-you-202833" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>.

Home & Garden

Plant enthusiast’s simple solution to get rid of pests

A plant enthusiast has come up with an easy way of getting rid of gnats and fruit flies around houseplants for good. Graphic designer Brad Canning created his own bug “trap” using three products, dishwashing liquid, apple cider vinegar and honey. The 29-year-old man, who owns more than 60 indoor plants, mixed the three ingredients in a small bowl and placed it near his houseplants. The method works because fungus gnats and fruit flies are attracted to the sweet smell and taste of apple cider vinegar and honey, once they try to drink it, the sticky dish soap would trap them. “How annoying are these tiny little bugs? They’re flying around because you’ve got a couple of houseplants. Lets get rid of them. It’s pretty straight forward,” Brad said in his <a href="https://7news.com.au/lifestyle/%20bradcanning">TikTok video</a>. He made his DIY solution by combining a couple of tablespoons of apple cider vinegar, a dollop of honey and a splash of dishwashing liquid. Braid said white vinegar will work in lieu of apple cider vinegar. “Give it a little bit of mix," he said. “The gnats will be completely attracted to it. They’ll fly in there and will die,” Brad said, adding: “So this will only help to get rid of adult gnats.” The video went viral with many saying they can’t wait to give the method a go at home while those who tried it said it did in fact work. “I did this and it 100 per cent worked for gnats - took a day or two so be patient,” one said. Image credit: TikTok

Home & Garden

15 plants that are poisonous to dogs

<h3>Plants and your pup</h3> Plants are having a real moment right now, and for good reason. They add beauty to your home, help you feel more in tune with nature, and they even boast health benefits. Unfortunately, some of the most popular and best indoor plants are toxic to dogs, who don’t know which ones are safe to munch on or play with and which absolutely aren’t. With veterinary help, we’re calling out the most common indoor and outdoor poisonous plants for dogs so you can avoid or get rid of them and replace them with some pup-friendly options. If you suspect that your pup has munched on a poisonous plant for dogs, consult your vet immediately. <h3>Aloe Vera</h3> Toxic components: saponins, anthraquinones Because it’s so easy to maintain and boasts medicinal qualities, aloe vera is a common household plant that people keep both indoors and outdoors. Unfortunately, the gooey gel beloved for its soothing benefits also contains two components that make this plant toxic to dogs when consumed. Typically, signs of ingestion include lethargy and upset stomach, including vomiting and diarrhoea. If you bring this plant into your home, we recommend keeping it high up – like on a sink ledge – so it’s inaccessible. <h3>Golden Pothos (epipremnum aureum)</h3> Toxic component: insoluble calcium oxalates The winding, ivy-like golden pothos (“Devil’s Ivy”) is another poisonous plant for dogs that contains insoluble calcium oxalates – glass-like crystals that can cause severe irritation when eaten. One of the key symptoms is oral itching and irritation, which can sometimes lead to intense burning and pain in and around your pet’s mouth. It can also lead to excessive drooling, vomiting, or difficulty swallowing. <h3>Milk Weed</h3> Toxic components: cardiotoxins, neurotoxins Though it’s a wonderful beacon for some of our favourite insects – including monarch butterflies and tussock moths – milkweed is one of those plants toxic to dogs. Some species contain cardiotoxins that affect a pet’s heart, while others contain neurotoxins that can affect organ function and mental state. As such, this plant should always be kept outdoors and/or out of reach from your dog. When consumed, it can cause severe reactions, including depression, weakness and diarrhoea, followed by more intense reactions such as seizures, breathing difficulty, organ failure and death. <h3>Sago Palm (cycas revoluta)</h3> Toxic component: cycasin The sago palm is leafy, beautiful and very easy to grow, which makes it a popular choice as an indoor plant. However, this plant’s toxic to dogs, so you should definitely keep it out of your house. “If consumed by your dog, the sago palm causes severe vomiting, diarrhoea and abdominal pain, as well as stumbling, tremors, seizures and temperature-regulation issues,” warns veterinarian Christie Long. “Ultimately, it causes liver failure, and death can occur with ingestion of an amount as small as a single seed.” <div class="slide-image" style="box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-family: Raleway, sans-serif, Arial; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; color: #444444; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"> </div> <h3>Azaleas (rhododendron)</h3> Toxic component: grayantoxin Azaleas are colourful and interesting to look at, so it’s easy to see why your dog might be attracted to them. Unfortunately, all parts of the azalea plant are poisonous to dogs, including the flower, leaves, seeds and even honey that’s made from the nectar. “When azaleas are consumed by your dog, it can result in hypersalivation, vomiting, diarrhoea, muscle weakness, vision problems, slow heart rate (bradycardia), heart arrhythmia and/or low blood pressure (hypotension), cardiovascular collapse, and possible death,” warns vet Shelly Zacharias. <div class="slide-image" style="box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-family: Raleway, sans-serif, Arial; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; color: #444444; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"> </div> <h3>Tulips (tulipa)</h3> Toxic components: tulipalin A and B Tulips are one of the most popular plants come springtime, but they can cause big problems for curious canines. The flower and stem parts of the plant are toxic, but the bulbs are especially dangerous when consumed. Clinical signs of ingestion include vomiting, diarrhoea, hypersalivation, and even depression. <div class="slide-image" style="box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-family: Raleway, sans-serif, Arial; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; color: #444444; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"> </div> <h3>Garlic and onion (allium species)</h3> Toxic component: n-propyl disulfide Though it’s easy to assume that all vegetables and herbs found in the garden are perfectly OK for your pup, that’s not always true. The allium species – which includes garlic and onions – are poisonous plants for dogs. “Any plant in the allium family, if ingested in large enough quantities, can cause a severe reaction in the bloodstream called hemolysis, in which red blood cells are destroyed in large numbers,” says Dr. Long. “The results are severe weakness, rapid breathing, and red-coloured urine.” She adds that forced vomiting by a veterinarian is key here, and many dogs will require blood transfusions to replace the blood cells that are damaged in order to survive. <div class="slide-image" style="box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-family: Raleway, sans-serif, Arial; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; color: #444444; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"> </div> <h3>Dumb cane (diffenbachia)</h3> Toxic components: insoluble calcium oxalates, proteolytic enzyme This stout, leafy tropical indoor low light houseplant may be pretty, but it should be kept out of reach of canines. “This plant contains calcium oxalate crystals, which are similar to microscopic pieces of glass resembling needles,” explains Dr Zacharias. “Chewing or ingesting it causes toxicity. Common symptoms are vomiting, swelling of the mouth and/or throat, severe oral pain, pawing at mouth or eyes, severe skin irritation, agitation, coughing, gagging and hypersalivation.” Simply coming into contact with the plant can cause symptoms, as well. If your dog’s eyes and skin are exposed, flush immediately or give them a bath. <div class="slide-image" style="box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-family: Raleway, sans-serif, Arial; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; color: #444444; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"> </div> <h3>Elephant’s ear (alocasia)</h3> Toxic component: insoluble calcium oxalates Alocasia – also known as elephant’s ear – is a striking dark green plant commonly found indoors. Like dumb cane, it contains glass-like insoluble oxalate crystals that can cause severe irritation both internally and externally, notes the Pet Poison Hotline. If consumed, an immediate visit to your vet is recommended to monitor and treat symptoms. If your dog’s skin or eyes has become irritated by the plant, a bath and/or flushing the skin and eyes with water is recommended. <div class="slide-image" style="box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-family: Raleway, sans-serif, Arial; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; color: #444444; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"> </div> <h3>Citrus plants and peels (rutaceae family)</h3> Toxic components: essential oils and psoralens “Many [citrus] plants that produce edible fruit – including grapefruit, oranges and lemons – are toxic if the actual plant portion is ingested. For example, the skin of the fruit, the leaves, or stems can often be dangerous,” says Dr Zacharias. Whether you grow these plants in your yard or bring them into your home from the grocery store, keep your dog away from them. Reactions may not be as severe as with other plants toxic to dogs, but if you suspect consumption, call your vet for guidance. They may request that you bring your dog in, especially if severe symptoms occur. <div class="slide-image" style="box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-family: Raleway, sans-serif, Arial; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; color: #444444; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"> </div> <h3>Oleander (nerium oleander)</h3> Toxic component: cardiac glycosides Oleander, known for its white or pink flowers and height that provides privacy between yards, is another poisonous plant for dogs. “Oleander ingestion causes extreme salivation, abdominal pain, vomiting, diarrhoea and lethargy. In severe cases, it causes liver failure and death, and it can ultimately interfere with the heart’s ability to beat properly,” explains Dr Long. “Once it is known that the dog ingested these poisonous leaves, rapid transfer to a veterinary hospital where vomiting can be induced is key. Supportive therapy with drugs designed to control gastrointestinal signs, as well as reverse liver and heart issues, is key to survival.” <div class="slide-image" style="box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-family: Raleway, sans-serif, Arial; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; color: #444444; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"> </div> <h3>Snake plants (sansevieria trifasciata)</h3> Toxic component: saponins Because of its striking appearance and the fact that it’s a houseplant that’s very hard to kill, snake plants are found in houses all across the world. Unfortunately, they are also poisonous plants for dogs and can cause nausea, vomiting and diarrhoea if consumed. It’s important to contact your veterinarian right away if you think your dog has ingested any portion of a snake plant. Depending on the severity, you may need to simply monitor and treat your dog’s symptoms, or you may need to take your dog in for more aggressive treatment. <div class="slide-image" style="box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-family: Raleway, sans-serif, Arial; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; color: #444444; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"> </div> <h3>Morning glory (ipomoea)</h3> Toxic component: indole alkaloids This beautiful vine plant that flowers in the morning may be irresistible to humans – and also to dogs – who might be tempted to chomp on them when they open. “The seeds are most toxic, and canine consumption can cause vomiting, nausea, pupil dilation (mydriasis), hallucinations, incoordination, diarrhoea, anaemia, confusion and liver failure,” notes Dr Zacharias. Go to your veterinarian or an emergency veterinary centre right away if you suspect consumption. Treatment consists of activated charcoal, IV-fluid administration, and ongoing symptomatic support. <div class="slide-image" style="box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-family: Raleway, sans-serif, Arial; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; color: #444444; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"> </div> <h3>Lily of the valley (convallaria majalis)</h3> Toxic component: cardenolides Lily of the valley is a beloved indoor and outdoor flower, but pet parents should not introduce it to their home or garden since this plant’s toxic to dogs. Known for its delicate white flowers, it is a highly poisonous plant for dogs and can result in vomiting, irregular heartbeat, reduced blood pressure, confusion and disorientation. In severe cases, it can even cause seizures or lead to a coma. Consult your veterinarian immediately for further instruction if you suspect your dog has consumed this plant. <div class="slide-image" style="box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-family: Raleway, sans-serif, Arial; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; color: #444444; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"> </div> <h3>Yew (taxus)</h3> Toxic component: taxine Yew is an evergreen shrub typically found outdoors. “If ingested, it can cause sudden death, trembling, muscle weakness, trouble breathing, collapse and heart arrhythmia,” says D. Zacharias. “If you suspect your canine has eaten any part of this plant, immediately go to your veterinarian or emergency veterinary centre. Treatment will consist of gastrointestinal decontamination – activated charcoal or possibly gastric lavage or an enema – as well as IV-fluid therapy and supportive therapy for any respiratory or cardiovascular function.” Image: Getty

Home Hints & Tips

Mistletoe – famous for stolen holiday kisses – is a parasite that steals water and nutrients from other plants

A parasitic plant with potentially poisonous berries might not sound like something that would boost your Christmas decorations to the next level. But, botanically speaking, that’s what mistletoe is. There are some <a href="https://www.usgs.gov/news/featured-story/not-just-kissing-mistletoe-and-birds-bees-and-other-beasts">1,300 species of this evergreen plant worldwide</a>. They’re all parasitic or semiparasitic, meaning they can <a href="https://www.cornellpress.cornell.edu/book/9780801443718/diseases-of-trees-and-shrubs/#bookTabs=1">survive only on a host plant</a>. Rather than being rooted in the ground, they live on the branches of other trees and shrubs. Just <a href="http://dnrc.mt.gov/divisions/forestry/docs/assistance/pests/fidls/147.pdf">two types are native to North America</a>. Twelve species of the American mistletoe can be found distributed largely across the southern half of the U.S., mostly affecting deciduous trees in the East as well as some evergreens in the West. Sixteen species of the leafless dwarf mistletoe infect only trees in the pine family and are mostly found along the West Coast. The American mistletoe, the one used at Christmas in the U.S., is in the genus Phoradendron, which means “<a href="https://www.usgs.gov/news/featured-story/not-just-kissing-mistletoe-and-birds-bees-and-other-beasts">thief of the tree</a>” in Greek. It has green leaves and is capable of photosynthesis and so produces much of its own food. But American mistletoe also sucks water and other nutrients out of its host plant by sending rootlike structures <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/B0-12-226865-2/00145-0">called haustoria</a> into the vascular tissue just under the bark of branches and twigs. These invading structures can live for many years inside a tree even if the mistletoe plant itself is removed. Mistletoes are what botanists call dioecious, meaning these plants have <a href="https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/2009/2-4/monoecious.html">separate male and female versions</a>. The females produce the fruits, called berries, which are generally white, but can be pink or reddish depending on the species. Birds widely distribute the seeds after eating the berries. Seeds of some species can also be <a href="https://www.fs.fed.us/rm/pubs_other/rmrs_1996_hawksworth_f001.pdf">shot out of the fruit</a> like a cannonball at up to 60 mph (100 kph) to a distance as far as 50 feet (15 meters). A sticky substance on the seeds helps them attach to any tree they land on until they germinate and begin to grow. In general, mistletoe won’t kill a tree unless it is heavily infested. Even then the tree doesn’t usually die from the mistletoe; most often death is an indirect effect of attacks from diseases or insects that take advantage of the stressed tree. Mistletoe’s parasitic ways can cause significant economic damage to forests industrially harvested for lumber. For a homeowner, though, it’s usually not necessary to control mistletoe – which is good, since getting rid of it can be difficult and takes patience and persistence. You can prune it out, being sure to get all those spreading haustoria under the host’s bark, or try chemical controls like the plant growth regulator ethephon. Maybe you’ll want to trim a sprig to decorate with during Christmastime. One of the most common traditions associated with mistletoe, <a href="https://time.com/5471873/mistletoe-kiss-christmas/">dating back at least to the 1700s</a>, is that anyone lingering beneath it would welcome a holiday kiss. Here in my home state of Oklahoma, mistletoe is our state floral emblem, apparently because it was the <a href="https://www.okhistory.org/publications/enc/entry.php?entry=MI047">only greenery available to put on graves</a> during the particularly hard winter of 1889. In other parts of the world, mistletoe is considered to bestow life and fertility, <a href="https://www.theholidayspot.com/christmas/history/mistletoe.htm">serve as a peace offering</a> and protect against poison. About poison: Mistletoe has a reputation as a poisonous plant. While the European species <a href="https://doi.org/10.5811/westjem.2012.8.12572">Viscum album is reportedly toxic</a>, <a href="https://doi.org/10.3109/15563659609013810">American mistletoe is not deadly</a>. Better to keep it away from little kids and pets, though, and if you are concerned, stick with artificial mistletoe for decorative purposes. Mistletoe is an important part of the ecosystem in the places where it grows in North America. Lots of birds rely on mistletoe berries as a food source, as do elk, deer, squirrels, chipmunks and even porcupines, which will also eat the leaves when other fresh foliage is scarce. Tangled clumps of mistletoe, traditionally referred to as witches’ brooms, provide nesting sites for birds, including spotted owls and Cooper’s hawks, and other animals. Three kinds of butterflies in the U.S. are entirely dependent on mistletoes. And it’s also an important nectar and pollen plant for honey bees and other native bees. So this parasitic plant plays a valuable role in both ecosystems and human traditions. If it grows near you, enjoy it because you probably wouldn’t be able to completely get rid of it anyway. And at Christmastime, it just may come in handy. Image credits: Getty Images This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/mistletoe-famous-for-stolen-holiday-kisses-is-a-parasite-that-steals-water-and-nutrients-from-other-plants-173555" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>.

Home & Garden

Multi-coloured plants are suddenly a home decor ‘must-have’. Here’s how to keep them alive

Fads and fashion have always influenced the plants we keep. And so it is with variegated plants, which have become <a href="https://thatplantylife.com/affordable-and-gorgeous-variegated-houseplants/">very popular</a>with indoor plant enthusiasts these days. Variegated plants possess multiple colours – typically on their leaves, but in some cases on stems, flowers and fruit. Their patterns include stripes, dots, edges and patches. They’re usually green with either white or yellow, but can also feature red, pink, silver and other colours. Variegated plants can divide opinion. I recall a great aunt telling me many years ago of her great fondness for the variegated Aspidistra elatior growing her garden. But I’ve also heard gardeners and garden designers dismiss variegated foliage because it didn’t fit with their design or colour themes. Now, it seems indoor variegated plants are considered a “<a href="https://www.apartmenttherapy.com/variegated-plant-care-tips-36878935">must-have</a>” home decor accessory. But before you rush out and buy one, make sure you know how to keep it happy. <h2>Understanding variegated plants</h2> Most plant species are entirely green but occasionally a variegated individual arises. Some catch the eye of a dedicated plant collector or nursery worker and become a popular variety. Plant variegation can occur for several reasons. In some plants, such as the flowers of tulips, it’s due to a <a href="https://www.britannica.com/story/tulip-mania-how-a-plant-virus-fueled-a-speculative-frenzy">viral infection</a>. The resulting streaks of different colours may be cursed or valued depending on the aesthetic effect. Others plants, such as those in the genus <a href="https://www.rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au/Stories/2019/Coleus-back-in-the-name-game">coleus</a>, are naturally patterned. Groups of cells produce different colour combinations, causing leaves to grow with attractive markings. Plant variegations can also arise from genetic mutation. When growing variegated plants, it’s important to understand how the various colours affect the way it functions. The green part of plants contains chlorophyll, a pigment essential for photosynthesis. (Photosynthesis, of course, is the process by which the leaves convert sunlight into oxygen and carbohydrate that provides energy for plants to grow.) In variegated plants, white parts of leaves do not contain chlorophyll and so do not photosynthesise. Yellow parts of leaves can help send energy to the chlorophyll, but can’t perform photosynthesis on their own. The same goes for some red, orange and pink patches of tissue. But all cells in the leaf – green or not – use the plant’s energy. That means variegated plants are less efficient energy producers than their all-green counterparts, which causes them to grow more slowly. Some plants have mutated into <a href="https://www.chicagobotanic.org/blog/how_to/science_activity_albino_plants">albinos</a> containing no chlorophyll. These normally die within a few days or weeks of germination. <h2>Caring for your plant indoors</h2> It’s no coincidence many popular indoor plants – such as coleus, philodendrons, monsteras, dracaenas and calatheas – are variegated. Because they’re usually far less vigorous than all-green versions of the species, they won’t be pushing against the ceiling within weeks. The decorative colour and pattern of a variegated indoor plant is an added bonus. Variegated plants can take longer than others to reach a size considered appropriate for sale at a nursery, so may be comparatively more expensive. But there are ways to protect your variegated investment. First, watch out for “reversion”. This can occur when a variegated plant sends up an all-green shoot. The shoot will grow fast compared to the variegated parts and can eventually take over, causing the whole plant to revert to green. To avoid this, vigilantly remove any green shoots before they get big. You don’t want variegated plants quickly outgrowing their space, but remember they’re low on chlorophyll and so need good light. And like any indoor plant, ensure its leaves are kept free of fine dust and you don’t give it too much, or too little, water. <h2>Variegated plants in the garden</h2> The popularity of indoor variegated plants will almost certainly lead to greater use outdoors. Their slow-growing nature means outdoor variegated plants are usually much less likely to be “weedy” and spread where they’re not wanted. This can be an advantage if you’ve avoided planting a species because it will take over the garden. The variegated versions of <a href="https://www.plantmark.com.au/pittosporum-eugenioides-variegata">pittosporum</a>, ficus and <a href="https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/57250/nerium-oleander-variegatum-(v)/details">nerium oleander</a>, for example, are far less intent on global domination than their all-green counterparts. When planting a variegated plant outdoors, watch that it doesn’t become shaded by other quicker-growing plants. Many variegated plants already struggle to photosynthesise sufficiently. A bit of extra shade can damage or even kill them. So ensure they get enough light – and every so often give them a hand by trimming back nearby plants. <h2>Growing with flying colours</h2> Variegated plants are having their moment in the sun. But their interesting biology is always in fashion! These plants can brighten up your indoor space and provide attractive colour and pattern in the garden. By learning about how variegated plants function and considering their special requirements, you can enjoy them for years to come. Image credits: Getty Images This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/multi-coloured-plants-are-suddenly-a-home-decor-must-have-heres-how-to-keep-them-alive-181163" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>.

Home & Garden

Why does my plant have brown tips on the leaves?

A healthy philodendron plant with green leaves We’ve all been there before. We’re watering our seemingly healthy houseplant when suddenly there it is: a tinge of brown on the plant’s leaf. Yikes. But what do brown tips on leaves mean for your plant, and what can you do to make them go away? Read on to find out. Lack of water or humidity If your plant is sporting crispy, dark, or brown tips on its leaves, it may mean you need to water more often. Check the soil moisture and slowly reduce the number of days in between watering. Watch your plants for signs of improvement. Lack of humidity could also be the cause. Tropical plants prefer higher humidity levels than we have in our homes. When we turn on the heat in winter, there’s even less moisture in the air. Group plants together so that as one loses moisture through its leaves, the neighbours benefit. Or place plants on saucers or trays filled with pebbles and water. Set a pot on the pebbles above the water. As the water evaporates, it will increase the humidity around the plant, where it is needed. Lack of nutrients A lack of key nutrients may be behind the brown tips on leaves of your plant. Burned-looking leaf tips, or old leaves with dark green or reddish-purplish colouring, may indicate a phosphorus deficiency. With a potassium deficiency, you may see yellow or brown along older leaf tips and edges, yellowing between veins, curling leaves, or spotting. For potted plants, add a slow-release type of fertiliser to the soil mix before planting. Every time you water, a little fertiliser is released, providing a steady flow of nutrients. But depending on the growing conditions and number of plants in the container, a midseason boost may be needed. Stay on top of your fertiliser applications by making notes on a calendar. Image credits: Getty Images This article originally appeared on <a href="https://www.readersdigest.com.au/food-home-garden/gardening-tips/why-does-my-plant-have-brown-tips-on-the-leaves" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Reader's Digest</a>.

Home & Garden

Sneezing with hay fever? Native plants aren’t usually the culprit

Hay fever is a downside of springtime around the world. As temperatures increase, plant growth resumes and flowers start appearing. But while native flowering plants such as wattle often get the blame when the seasonal sneezes strike, hay fever in Australia is typically caused by introduced plant species often pollinated by the wind. <h2>A closer look at pollen</h2> Pollen grains are the tiny reproductive structures that move genetic material between flower parts, individual flowers on the same plant or a nearby member of the same species. They are typically lightweight structures easily carried on wind currents or are sticky and picked up in clumps on the feathers of a honeyeater or the fur of a fruit bat or possum. Hay fever is when the human immune system overreacts to allergens in the air. It is not only caused by pollen grains but fungal spores, non-flowering plant spores, mites and even pet hair. The classic symptoms of hay fever are sneezing, runny noses, red, itchy, and watery eyes, swelling around the eyes and scratchy ears and throat. The problem with pollen grains is when they land on the skin around our eyes, in our nose and mouth, the proteins found in the wall of these tiny structures leak out and are recognised as foreign by the body and trigger a reaction from the immune system. <h2>So what plants are the worst culprits for causing hay fever?</h2> Grasses, trees, and herbaceous weeds such as plantain are the main problem species as their pollen is usually scattered by wind. In Australia, the main grass offenders are exotic species including rye grass and couch grass (a commonly used lawn species). Weed species that cause hay fever problems include introduced ragweed, Paterson’s curse, parthenium weed and plantain. The <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5102629/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">problematic tree species</a> are also exotic in origin and include liquid amber, Chinese elm, maple, cypress, ash, birch, poplar, and plane trees. Although there are some native plants that have wind-spread pollen such as she-oaks and white cypress pine, and which can induce hay fever, these species are exceptional in the Australian flora. Many Australian plants are not wind pollinated and <a href="https://blog.publish.csiro.au/austpollinatorweek/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">use animals</a> to move their clumped pollen around. For example, yellow-coloured flowers such as wattles and peas are pollinated by insect such as bees. Red- and orange-coloured flowers are usually visited by birds such as honeyeaters. Large, dull-coloured flowers with copious nectar (the reward for pollination) are visited by nocturnal mammals including bats and possums. Obviously Australian plant pollen can still potentially cause the immune system to overreact, but these structures are less likely to reach the mucous membranes of humans. <h2>What can we do to prevent hay fever attacks at this time of the year?</h2> With all of this in mind, here are some strategies to prevent the affects of hay fever: <ol> <li>stay inside and keep the house closed up on warm, windy days when more pollen is in the air</li> <li>if you must go outside, wear sunglasses and a face mask</li> <li>when you return indoors gently rinse (and don’t rub) your eyes with running water, change your clothes and shower to remove pollen grains from hair and skin</li> <li>try to avoid mowing the lawn in spring particularly when grasses are in flower (the multi-pronged spiked flowers of couch grass are distinctive)</li> <li>when working in the garden, wear gloves and facial coverings particularly when handling flowers consider converting your garden to a native one. Grevilleas are a great alternative to rose bushes. Coastal rosemary are a fabulous native replacement for lavender. Why not replace your liquid amber tree with a fast growing, evergreen and low-allergenic lilly pilly tree?</li> </ol> <h2>If you do suffer a hay fever attack</h2> Sometimes even with our best efforts, or if it’s not always possible to stay at home, hay fever can still creep up on us. If this happens: <ul> <li>antihistamines will reduce sneezing and itching symptoms</li> <li>corticosteroid nasal sprays are very effective at reducing inflammation and clearing blocked noses</li> <li>decongestants provide quick and temporary relief by drying runny noses but should not be used by those with high blood pressure</li> <li>salt water is a good way to remove excessive mucous from the nasal passages.</li> </ul> Behavioural changes on warm, windy spring days are a good way of avoiding a hay fever attack. An awareness of the plants around us and their basic reproductive biology is also useful in preventing our immune systems from overreacting to pollen proteins that they are not used to encountering. This article first appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/sneezing-with-hay-fever-native-plants-arent-usually-the-culprit-190336" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>. Image: Shutterstock

Body

Selecting plants for spring

Any green thumb knows spring means one thing: planting, planting and more planting. Spring is a time of regeneration and renewal so gardening at this time of the year means you’ll enjoy the first burst of vibrant hues and fragrant scents from blossoming flowers. To get you started on a stunning garden, here is a list of the best flowers to plant in spring to ensure your garden is thriving come summer. Lilacs Famed for their sweet fragrance, lilacs bloom from spring to early summer. They come in all shapes and sizes as well as a variety of colours ranging from white, pale yellow, pink, mauve and purple. Growing condition: Full sun or light shade and well-drained, sandy and gravelly soil. Tulips The bloom of tulips never fails to delight especially since they come in every imaginable colours (except true blue). Tulips are perfect for any type of garden setting from the more formal to the casual. Growing condition: Full sun and well-drained soil. Hyacinths Hyacinths cluster together in bright shades of pink, red and purple making it a great flower to brighten up your garden. Growing condition: Full sun or part shade and well-drained soil. Azaleas The burst of colour Azaleas bring make them one of the most popular and best flowering shrubs in Australia. They look great planted en masse and provide a beautiful feature for a spring garden. Growing conditions: Part shade and moist but well-drained acidic soil Daffodils The sunny disposition of daffodils will not only brighten your mood, but your garden. There are many varieties and their sweet scent will keep you outside in the garden all throughout spring. Growing condition: Full sun or part shade, well-drained soil. Image: Getty

Home Hints & Tips

How to prune a hibiscus plant

As past president of the Australian Hibiscus and the International Hibiscus Society, there’s no one better to teach us how to prune hibiscus plants than 87-year-old Over60 community member, Jim Prudie. “This month we will look at the subject of pruning your plants, as this is advisable here in Australia seeing that this is the month that spring arrives and the plants begin to wake from there winter sleep and the sap begins to flow causing the plants to start getting new shoots and if you prune the bush at this time you will get a good shaped bush and better flowers. People in the southern states should wait until the danger of frosts has passed and in the northern hemisphere you will have to adjust the month to coincide with your spring. This condition is brought about by a few things – the most important being that the daylight hours begin to get longer as the sun on its  journey begins to get closer to your country, where ever you may live, be it in the northern or southern hemisphere, and as the sun gets closer, the weather begins to warm up and this causes the sap to flow and in so doing it causes the roots to start drawing more nourishment from the surrounding soil, and the plant goes into growing mode and new shoots begin to appear at the eyes, as opposed to the bare sticks we have been looking at during the winter. We prune our plants for a variety of reasons, and I have listed the most important reasons to get a better bush. 1. To train into a desired shape. 2. To maintain the bush to a manageable size, and open up the bush to the sun by pruning away the middle branches which have grown into the middle thus blocking out the air and light. 3. It helps in the control and to be able to see any attacks of insects. 4. It will encourage stronger growth, as when you shorten the branches when you prune them, it will cause the plant to send out more branches, and as I always say more branches, more flowers. 5. It will get rid of old and weak branches, and those which grown in a crisscross fashion causing a cluttered plant, as well as those that have grown out of shape. 6. If you prune your plants in the spring you help the bush to promote larger and better blooms of good shape and size. Hibiscus thrives on being pruned in the spring, and you do not have to get a stepladder to see the flowers, as the branches get too long. When you prune the tops of the branches, it causes the plant to start shooting down lower and instead of bare sticks you will see a plant covered in nice green leaves, and more branches, and “more branches more flowers”. This happens because when you prune the tops off, it stops the growing cycle from the tip. Whenever I start to prune I try to think how the bush grows, and prune the plant according to the way it grows, by that I mean if the plant is an average grower, I will prune off about a third of the bush, if the bush is a tall fast grower I will prune off about a half, and if the plant is a slow low grower, I will just prune off the tips, otherwise it takes too long to recover if you give it a hard prune, and you will miss out on the flowers for the season and have to wait until next year to see some blooms. I always cut off the low lying branches, usually leaving a 12 inch space under the bush, which allows you to keep under the bush clean and also if there are low lying branches, and a flower appears it drags in the dirt and there is a danger of snails causing damage to the petals. I prune just above an outward pointing eye, using a slanting cut away from the eye, so any water will run away from the eye, and also  encourages the new shoot to grow outwards instead of into the middle of the plant, and as I always try to end up with a pruned bush which is in the shape of a vase. Make sure your secateurs are kept clean and sharp, so that they will give a clean cut, and I like to dip my secateurs into some alcohol or methylated spirits between bushes to prevent spreading disease. Some members do not prune all the branches at one time so they are able to have blooms while they wait for the new growth to flower. These remaining branches can be pruned once the new growth commences flowering. If you are growing in pots this is a good time to think about a root prune at the same time as you prune the top of the plant, and repot into some fresh potting mix, with some slow release fertilizer included in the mix, either into the same size pot if it is the biggest you want to go to, or the next size pot if it is in a small pot. Do not make the pot size too big, When the bush is putting out a lot of new growth this is when I apply a fertilizer high in nitrogen to promote the new growth, and apply this until you see new buds starting to form and then I use a fertilizer higher in potash than nitrogen to promote flowers instead of nice green leaves. A fertiliser I recommend after you have pruned the plants in the ground is the following: two ice cream containers [or two litres] of Blood and Bone, two of superphosphate, one of sulphate of potash, half a can of magnesium sulphate [epsom salts], a quarter of can sulphate of iron. Mix all this all together and apply a good handful around each bush. Then I cover this with good mulch about two to three inches thick to keep the roots cool in hot weather to come and also to prevent the loss of moisture. Later when the blooms appear I use a soluble fertiliser higher in potash than nitrogen with my FertiGator and apply it from the hose attached to the 5000-litre tank with an electric pump. If you follow these instructions you will be well on your way to seeing a healthy bush and plenty of flowers. Image: Getty

Home & Garden

Man charged with murdering his mother with a pot plant

A 56-year-old man From Tumbi, on the NSW Central Coast has been charged with murder, after allegedly killing his 82-year-old mother. Police allege the man assaulted the woman on the morning of the 28th of July, using a pot plant in home they shared together. He then left the premises, and later returned to ring emergency services. Police say they received the call around 5:15 pm and rushed to the scene to conduct a welfare check. Upon arrival they found the woman dead with head injuries. The man was arrested at the scene and taken to Wyong Police station where he was charged. "The man has been charged with murder," a statement read. "He was refused bail to appear at Wyong Local Court later today." The home remains a crime scene as police investigate. If you or someone you know is impacted by sexual assault, domestic or family violence, call 1800RESPECT on 1800 737 732 or visit <a href="http://1800respect.org.au/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">1800RESPECT.org.au</a>. In an emergency, call 000. Image: Nine News

News

The household appliance that could be killing your plants

As many people continue to battle with cold and damp winter months, many households turn to the use of a dehumidifier to keep their home in tip-top shape. While these common appliances can be great for dealing with extra moisture in your home, they can also spell disaster for your indoor plants. On average, plants need between 40% and 60% humidity to thrive, depending on the type of plant. The constant use of dehumidifiers can greatly alter the environment of your home, with your plants suffering as a result. When the air becomes too dry, you may notice the edges of your plant's leaves turning brown, stopping growing, or the leaves start to turn yellow. If you are starting to notice your plants becoming unhappy, Rhian Pullar, horticulturist, and director of Northern Beaches Creative Gardens, says you should be watering more regularly. "I always look at the leaves, and if it's wilting, then water it." Rather than sticking to a strict watering schedule, Rhian says it's best to water your plants as needed. "Put your finger in the soil. If it looks dry and as a bone, water it. If you feel a bit of moisture, let it dry out before watering to avoid root rot." If you have some plants that are really struggling with low humidity, Rhian says to only use the dehumidifier when required. “Use a water spray bottle to mist the leaves as part of your watering routine," she adds. "I suggest grouping your plants together if they are struggling with the dehumidifier and moving them to your bathroom so they can collect moisture from the shower.” Alternatively, you can look at purchasing plants that thrive in low humidity environments. Rhian’s top five plants that are great for dry conditions are succulents, orchids, devils ivy, snake plant, and fiddle leaf fig. Image credits: Getty Images

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Selecting plants for spring

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