Travel experts reveal the best Paris neighbourhoods to explore
<p><em><strong>Evan Upchurch writes for </strong></em><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://blog.virtuoso.com/culinary/10-delicious-desserts-especially-travelers/" target="_blank">Virtuoso Luxury Traveller</a></strong></span><strong>,</strong><em><strong> the blog of a <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://www.virtuoso.com/" target="_blank">global luxury travel network</a></span>.</strong></em></p>
<p>Divided into the right and left banks by the river Seine, modern Paris is much more than Audrey Hepburn in <em>Charade</em>, Edith Piaf’s <em>La vie en rose</em>, and the stories of Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald.</p>
<p>The city changes from one neighborhood, or arrondissement, to the next. We asked five people from the <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="https://www.virtuoso.com/" target="_blank">Virtuoso</a></strong></span> family to talk about the <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="https://www.virtuoso.com/destinations/europe/france/paris#.WPYiGVKZPBI" target="_blank">Paris</a></strong></span> they know and love.<br /> <br /> <strong>1. The Sixteenth Arrondissement: Calm & Upscale</strong><br /> <em>Our expert: Laurence Tafanel, Owner of <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="https://www.virtuoso.com/hotels/6164090/esprit-saint-germain" target="_blank">Esprit Saint Germain</a></strong></span></em></p>
<p>Tafanel’s charming boutique hotel is in the heart of Saint Germain, but she has always lived in Neuilly-sur-Seine, an upscale suburb of Paris close to the sixteenth arrondissement. Both areas are family-friendly, residential neighborhoods, also home to many French stars.</p>
<p><strong>Favourite Addresses: </strong><br /> With a breathtaking view of the Eiffel Tower and a chic art-deco ambience, <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="https://monsieurbleu.com/" target="_blank">Monsieur Bleu</a></strong></span> restaurant, located inside the <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://www.palaisdetokyo.com/en" target="_blank">Palais de Tokyo</a></strong></span> contemporary art museum, is a must. <em>20 avenue de New York</em></p>
<p>Make a reservation at <a href="http://www.lebestofparis.com/best-restaurants-in-paris/le-stella-brasserie-a-chic-parisian-establishment" target="_blank"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Le Stella</strong></span></a> for traditional French cuisine in an intimate bistro. Practice your French, as you will be surrounded by locals. <em>133 avenue Victor Hugo</em></p>
<p>Plan a picnic at <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://en.parisinfo.com/paris-museum-monument/71494/Bois-de-Boulogne" target="_blank">Bois de Boulogne</a></strong></span> on a sunny Sunday afternoon, and stock up on supplies at these neighborhood stops. Buy fresh baguettes at <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Boulangerie-Bechu/152659798102126" target="_blank">Béchu</a></strong></span> (<em>118 avenue Victor Hugo</em>) and delicious pastries at <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://www.auxmerveilleux.com/home_en/" target="_blank">Aux Mérveilleux</a></strong></span> (<em>29 rue de l’Annonciation</em>). Explore the magnificent permanent collection of impressionist paintings at <a href="http://www.marmottan.fr/" target="_blank"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Musée Marmottan-Monet</strong></span> </a>(<em>2 rue Louis Boilly</em>) or discover the large collection of Asian art at <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://www.guimet.fr/en/home" target="_blank">Musée national des Arts asiatiques</a></strong></span> (<em>6 place d’Iéna)</em>.</p>
<p><strong>2. Saint Germain: Classic & Eclectic</strong><br /><em>Our expert: Gary Johnson, Seattle-based Virtuoso agency owner</em></p>
<p>Gary has been visiting Paris for 45 years, first as a child accompanying his father, a Pan Am pilot, for long weekends. In high school, he brought home armfuls of baguettes to pass out to grateful teachers. Today, he loves Saint Germain, historically a center for art, music, and literature – and still a hub for in-the-know, artistic Parisians.</p>
<p><strong>Favourite Addresses:</strong><br /> The neighborhood gem is Laurence Tafanel’s 28-room hotel <strong>Esprit Saint Germain</strong>, says Johnson. Close to <strong>Saint Sulpice</strong> and the <strong>Luxembourg Gardens</strong>, it is one of the city’s best-located properties.</p>
<p>For a welcoming neighborhood restaurant, try <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://www.restaurantlechristine.com/en/" target="_blank">Le Christine</a></strong></span><strong><a href="http://www.restaurantlechristine.com/en/" target="_blank"></a> </strong>– they use fresh, seasonal products for a modern French menu. <em>1 rue Christine</em></p>
<p>The <strong>Hermès </strong>(<em>17 rue de Sèvres</em>) space was once the famous art-deco <strong>Lutetia swimming pool</strong> from the 1930s, transformed in the early 2000s into a concept store with a Hermès boutique, but also a tea salon, florist, and library.</p>
<p>After a day of shopping, treat yourself to a few pastries (try any of the fruit tarts) from <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://www.davidlebovitz.com/gerard-mulots-i-1/" target="_blank">Mulot</a></strong></span> (<em>76 rue de Seine</em>).</p>
<p><strong>3. L’Île Saint-Louis: Charming & Isolated</strong><br /><em>Our expert: Hubert Moineau, Paris-based Virtuoso agency owner</em></p>
<p>Moineau now lives in the second arrondissement, but his heart remains on the quaint <strong>L’Île Saint-Louis</strong>, where he grew up and lived for the majority of his life. This small island in the Seine that’s part of the fourth arrondissement is well-known by tourists, but has an authentic heart – if you know where to go.</p>
<p><strong>Favourite Addresses:</strong><br /> Visit during the week to avoid the weekend tourist rush and to catch it in its “village” form. If you must go on a weekend, the ideal Sunday activity is to get ice cream or sorbet at <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://www.berthillon.fr/" target="_blank">Berthillon</a></strong></span> (<em>29-31 rue Saint-Louis en l’Île</em>) and walk down to the Seine to relax and participate in a common Paris pastime: people-watching.</p>
<p>Every Parisian has a go-to café and bistro. Try the low-key <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://www.foodspotting.com/places/43165-le-louis-ix-paris" target="_blank">Le Louis IX</a></strong></span> for a quick <em>café allongé</em> (espresso with hot water) or typical bistro meal (<em>23 rue des Deux Ponts</em>).</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://www.ulysse.fr/?lang=fr" target="_blank">Ulysse</a></strong></span> is a small travel bookstore owned by a member of the Explorer’s Club. Hunt for a special book to remember your time in Paris (<em>26 rue Saint-Louis en l’Île</em>).</p>
<p>Fine dining is nearly synonymous with the city. For a true gastronomic experience make a reservation at <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://www.lesergentrecruteur.fr/en/" target="_blank">Le Sergent Recruteur</a></strong></span>, whose narrow building once served as a former tavern (<em>41 rue Saint-Louis en l’Île</em>).<br /> <br /><strong> 4. Le Marais/Oberkampf: Trendy & Lively</strong><br /> <em>Our expert: Nicola Rusborg, assistant director of sales, <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="https://www.virtuoso.com/hotels/6163723/ritz-paris" target="_blank">Ritz Paris</a></strong></span></em></p>
<p>Rusborg, originally from Germany, arrived in Paris two years ago to help lead the successful reopening of this historic palace hotel. Like many 20- and 30-somethings, she settled between two of the city’s hottest neighborhoods: <strong>Le Marais</strong> and <strong>Oberkampf</strong>. Le Marais is renowned as the place to be for trendsetters and young professionals, while Oberkampf is considered a young, up-and-coming area characterized by shabby-chic, even gritty areas.</p>
<p><strong>Favorite Addresses:</strong><br /> Start your night at the trendy Italian restaurant <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="https://www.timeout.com/paris/en/restaurants/ober-mamma" target="_blank">Ober Mamma</a></strong></span>, and enjoy a Cucumber Spritz at their beautiful bar while waiting for a table — they don’t take reservations. (<em>107 Boulevard Richard Lenoir</em>). Continue at <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://www.udobar.com/" target="_blank">Udo Bar</a></strong></span>, where the beer, electronic music, and currywurst transport you to Berlin (<em>4 bis rue Neuve Popincourt</em>). If you prefer a cocktail scene, try the crazy-hip <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://www.quixotic-projects.com/venue/candelaria" target="_blank">Candelaria</a></strong></span> – a tiny Mexican restaurant at first glance, but home to a hidden cocktail bar in the back (<em>52 rue de Saintonge</em>).</p>
<p>To work off the cocktails and French pastries, take a 45-minute cycling class at <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://www.kiwill.fr/" target="_blank">Kiwill</a></strong></span> (<em>27 rue du Grand Prieuré</em>), followed by a healthy brunch at <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="https://www.season-paris.com/" target="_blank">Season</a></strong></span> (<em>1 rue Dupuis</em>).</p>
<p>Window-shop on <strong>Rue Vieille du Temple</strong> (tip: unlike many Parisian stores, many shops here are open on Sundays) or visit the newly renovated <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://www.museepicassoparis.fr/" target="_blank">Picasso Museum</a></strong></span> (<em>5 rue de Thorigny</em>).</p>
<p>Stop by <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="https://www.merci-merci.com/fr/" target="_blank">Merci</a></strong></span>, which combines fashion with homewares, and its Instagram-worthy café next door (<em>111 boulevard Beaumarchais</em>).</p>
<p><strong>6. The Fifth Arrondissement: Fun & Down-To-Earth</strong><br /><em>Evan Upchurch, student at La Sorbonne and freelance writer for Virtuoso and Travesías Media</em></p>
<p>I’ve adopted Paris as my new home, after arriving here almost four years ago. I live in a cozy studio in the fifth arrondissement, a hub for students and the heart of the Latin Quarter. Walking its streets feels like being in a living museum.</p>
<p><strong>Favourite Addresses:</strong><br /> Head to <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://bunsparis.com/" target="_blank">Buns</a></strong></span>, a tiny burger joint started by two friends who were once part of the Buddha Bar team, and grab a BBQ burger (or, for vegetarians, a falafel burger) at extremely affordable prices (<em>8 rue Gay Lussac</em>). Stroll through the <strong>Luxembourg Gardens </strong>and try and spot the Medici Fountain’s mind-boggling optical illusion.</p>
<p>Make a late reservation at one of the quartier’s trendiest wine bars, <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="https://www.facebook.com/lebardeferparis/" target="_blank">Le Bar de Fer</a></strong></span>, on a cobblestoned street just off the famous Rue Mouffetard (<em>7 rue du Pot de Fer</em>). You’ll love their live music and their <em>planches mixtes</em>, a beautiful assortment of charcuterie, cheeses, and salad.</p>
<p>Visit the <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/" target="_blank">Musée de Cluny</a></strong></span> to find the vestiges of the Gallo-Roman baths, the six tapestries that make up the fifteenth-century masterpiece <strong>La Dame à la Licorne</strong>, and gorgeous Renaissance art (<em>6 place Paul Painlevé</em>). Take a ten-minute walk to find more remains from the Gallo-Roman era in Paris, the <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ar%C3%A8nes_de_Lut%C3%A8ce" target="_blank">Arènes de Lutèce</a></strong></span> – an amphitheater that once sat 15,000 people watching gladiatorial combats. Today, people read on its ancient steps and kids play soccer in the dust where gladiators once fought (<em>49 Rue Monge</em>).</p>
<p><em>First appeared on <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="http://www.virtuoso.com/" target="_blank">Virtuoso Luxury Traveller</a></strong></span>.</em></p>
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