Top 13 things to do in Luang Prabang
Travel writer Justine Tyerman fell in love with lovely Luang Prabang.
Justine Tyerman recently visited Luang Prabang, the spiritual capital of Laos, with New Zealand-based travel company Innovative Travel and Singapore Airlines. Located in northern Laos at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers in a valley surrounded by mountains, Luang Prabang is famous for its many beautiful Buddhist temples. Inhabited for thousands of years, it was once the royal capital of the country. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995 due to its ‘rich architectural and artistic heritage that reflect the fusion of Lao traditional urban architecture with that of the colonial era’.
1. Hire a bike
Justine heading off around Luang Prabang by bike.
Luang Prabang is an ideal place to explore by bike. A small city with a population of about 56,000 people, the terrain is largely flat and the traffic is slow-moving and very considerate of cyclists. It’s far cooler than walking on a hot day because, depending on your speed, you generate quite a breeze. Our hotel, Parasol Blanc, had a fleet of bikes with locks that were free for their guests to use or you can rent bikes from many places in town. A great way to explore the Mekong River, temples, markets, museums and ethnic arts centres.
2. Pha Tad Ke
The ethno-botanic garden at Pha Tad Ke is full of medicinal plants and natural remedies.
The Mekong River is born in Tibet and flows through China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam on its way to the South China Sea. The longest stretch of the 4350km river is in Laos. It’s an ever-present feature in the country and a cruise of some kind on its swirling red-ochre waters is a must. We journeyed down river in a long boat to Pha Tad Ke, the first botanical gardens to be established in Laos.
Work began on the site in 2008 on land that was once a retreat and hunting lodge for the Lao royal family, and the gardens opened in November 2016 creating the first living collection of the flora of Laos.
You could easily spend a day wandering around the shady pathways to the ginger, palm, bamboo, organic and educational gardens, the arboretum, mist house, caves and orchid nursery. The ethno-botanic garden is especially absorbing, full of medicinal plants and natural remedies. The tropical flowers are so shiny and exuberant, I found myself touching them to make sure they weren’t artificial.
Flowers at Pha Tad Ka gardens.
Pha Tad Ke is cared for by over 50 Lao staff and a team of dedicated scientists including botantist Bryony Smart, a New Zealander who has been working at the gardens since it opened. What a surprise to find a Kiwi there!
They develop educational programmes for all age groups, conducting research into plant reintroduction, horticulture, ethno-botany and medicinal plants.
Lunch at the Pha Tad Ke café was a feast of delectable Lao dishes. The gift shop had a 50%-off sale so most of us purchased souvenirs there. I bought fragrant mango moisturiser and another cotton scarf to add to my Lao collection. I could make a bedspread out of all the lovely Lao scarves by the time I’d finished the trip.
3. Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre
The Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre (TAEC) in Luang Prabang, is the only independent resource centre in Laos dedicated to the country's many diverse ethnic groups.
The colourful pleated skirts of the Hmong at the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre.
The doors opened in July 2007 and current exhibits feature unique cultural aspects of four of Laos’ most well-known ethnic minority groups - the gorgeous costumes and elaborate headdresses of the Akha including one made from over 300 pieces of silver; the colourful accordion pleated skirts and magnificent silver necklaces of the Hmong with locks to symbolise the locking of the soul in the body; the process and tools the Tai Lue use to turn raw cotton into fine thread for weaving; and the versatility and beauty of bamboo basketry woven by the Kmhmu.
The story of Job’s Tears in The Seeds of Culture: From Living Plants to Handicrafts exhibit is also fascinating. The seeds from the grass plant are used by a wide variety of ethnic groups as embellishments for clothing, bags and jewellery.
4. National Museum
The National Museum is housed in the former palace of King Sisavangvong who ruled the kingdom of Luang Prabang and later the kingdom of Laos from 1904-59. A huge bronze statue of the king stands in the gardens.
The exhibits stretch back centuries, tracing the turbulent past of the Lane Xang kingdom and the colonial era, through to the present day.
When the communists came to power in 1975, they took over the palace and sent the royal family to re-education camps. The palace was converted into a museum and opened to the public in 1995 after renovation.
The royal apartments have been faithfully preserved and offer a glimpse into the lifestyle of the king and his family. The exhibits include royal religious objects, weapons, statues, screens and paintings from past centuries. In the mirrored Throne Hall, you can see the crown jewels of Laos. One room features murals depicting everyday Lao life in the 1930s.
A pavilion houses the 2000 year-old Prabang Buddha which is made from solid gold. A garage contains the last king’s extensive collection of cars.
Note: After paying your entrance fee you leave your shoes, bags and all photographic equipment in the lockers (free of charge) before entering the exhibit halls. Photos are forbidden at this site.
5. Temples
Wat Visoun is famous for the ‘Watermelon Stupa’ in the courtyard.
Wat Visoun, the oldest temple in Luang Prabang, dates back to 1513 and the reign of King Wisunarat (Visoun). Once home to the Prabang Buddhas, the temple was entirely rebuilt in 1887 after being destroyed by the invading Black Flags from Southern China. It’s famous for the ‘Watermelon Stupa’ in the courtyard. It represents a lotus flower but is nicknamed watermelon because of its shape.
Wat Xieng Thong, the most revered temple in Luang Prabang, was built in 1560 by King Setthathirat. A huge golden Buddha is the centrepiece of the ornately-decorated temple, surrounded by row-upon-row of smaller Buddha statues. The walls of the temple are decorated with magnificent glass mosaics and ornate carvings and murals depicting Lao legends. The golden frontage of the temple is exquisite. So too is the Tree of Life on an outside wall. There are over 20 structures in the grounds including a building to house the royal funeral barge pulled by a many-headed naga or dragon. We spotted a couple of friendly young monks who were happy to pose in front of the temple. Laos is one of few places in the world where travellers can take photos of local people without having to pay.
There are a myriad of stunning temples in Luang Prabang. We also visited Wat Mai, a temple renowned for its golden bas-relief, Wat Aham, which was first built in the 1500s, and Wat That where the ashes of King Sisavangvong are kept inside the large central stupa.
6. Alms-giving
You will need to get up early to catch the parade of monks through the streets of Luang Prabang. Every morning before sunrise, hundreds of monks from the many local temples walk along the streets of Luang Prabang receiving alms. Those giving alms are mainly women who sit in groups on the footpath with their bamboo baskets of sticky rice and other food. The monks chant blessings to the alms-givers as they walk by with their lidded containers for the food. Aged from eight years to quite elderly, the barefoot, shaven-headed monks are a colourful sight in their bright orange robes. Most are teenagers but some are so tiny, it’s hard to imagine them living away from home.
Monks receiving alms from local women.
About 80 percent of Lao males become monks at some point in their lives. They receive free education, accommodation, food and transport so a period of monkhood is especially common among rural communities where families tend to be larger and less able to afford schooling.
7. Street Markets
Local handicrafts on display at Luang Prabang night markets.
The markets in Luang Prabang are a cheerful, friendly place where shoppers are not harassed to make purchases and any bargaining is good-natured.
The variety of goods and bargains was so tempting at the night markets, I bought a painting of the monks’ parade, a series of three wooden statues of paddy field workers, a mosaic bowl, a pair of light-weight, loose-fitting shorts ideal for the heat, some scarves and a gorgeous silk-embroidered carry bag. Even when I couldn’t fit anything more in my suitcase, I kept going back to enjoy the colourful, vibrant atmosphere and admire the exquisite local handicrafts displayed so beautifully.
8. Living Land Farm
Kiwis getting right amongst it, planting rice at Living Land Farm.
The Living Land Farm, founded in 2005, is an entirely organic, community enterprise, run by a local team for the benefit of the Lao people.
Guide Khamla, a born entertainer who had us in fits of laughter, demonstrated the 13 steps of rice production assisted by a couple of delightful Lao youngsters.
The process involves selecting the best grains, planting the seed in a nursery, ploughing the field, transplanting the seedlings, watering and weeding, harvesting the crop, thrashing, cleaning, packing and storing, husking and grinding it into flour (for noodles), soaking it overnight and steaming.
Our enthusiastic group of Kiwis donned coolie hats and had a go at everything from preparing the paddy field with help of Rudolf, the water buffalo, to thrashing the rice after harvested . . . and eating the finished product, the 14th and most popular step.
Khamla showed us around the extensive organic gardens and shade houses and we also watched a couple of elderly men making intricate animal shapes out of a flax-type material from the rice plant to give to visitors.
Khamla had us in fits of laughter as he demonstrated how to carry heavy baskets of rice at Living Land Farm.
I liked the philosophy at the farm. Assistant manager Sia Lee said: “We grow organic vegetables, salad greens, herbs and rice and supply leading restaurants and hotels in Luang Prabang.
“We employ workers who have learning difficulties or physical disabilities who are unable to find work. Our project supports children from poor families with their education and medical needs. We offer free English language classes to children from local villages and act as a training centre for agriculture students.”
9. Tat Kuang Si Waterfall
A young girl jumping into a pool at Tat Kuang Si Waterfall.
The Tat Kuang Si Waterfall, 45 minutes’ drive from Luang Prabang, is a popular swimming spot on a hot day so take your swimsuit and a towel. It’s tempting to stop for a swim at the first of the inviting blue-green pools but make sure you follow the path up through the rain forest to the foot of the 60m waterfall. It’s a stunning sight. From the top pool, the water flows down a series of travertine terraces where swimming is allowed. I immersed myself in the cool water watching a handful of daring youngsters trying to out-do each other with daring dives off rocks.
Our Innovative Travel guide Fhan told us the legend of the waterfall. Tat Kuang Si Waterfall (Tat means waterfall, Kuang - deer and Si - dig) began to flow when a wise old man dug deep into the earth to find water. A beautiful golden deer then made its home under a big rock that protruded from the falls. The sound of the water falling on this rock created an enchanting echo that drew people to the waterfall from as far away as China.
10. Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre
Just inside the entrance to Tat Kuang Si Waterfall, we came across bears lying in hammocks, feasting on bamboo, lolling around in trees, roaming through the rainforest and playing in the streams. Thanks to Free the Bears, nearly 40 Asiatic black bears, who were once victims of an illegal trade in wildlife, now lead idyllic lives at Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre, a huge enclosure within the waterfall reserve.
An Asiatic black bear who has fallen asleep in a hammock while feasting on bamboo at Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre.
Watching the amusing antics of Noy, Deng, Kham, Damn, Keo and friends, I was horrified to think of them being kept in tiny cages and ‘milked’ for their gall bladder bile, a popular ingredient in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM). Bears are also poached and killed for their body parts that are used in TCM throughout the East and Southeast Asia.
These beautiful animals are sometimes known as ‘moon bears’ because of the characteristic white crescent shape on their chests.
11. Luang Prabang Elephant Camp
The star of the elephant camp is the baby, aged two, who is nicknamed ‘Sang Noi Kiddu’, meaning naughty baby elephant.
On the way to the waterfall, I fulfilled a long-held desire to meet an elephant.
Fhan took us to Luang Prabang Elephant Camp, an elephant sanctuary that is home to 12 Asian elephants and a calf who have been rescued from a life of hard labour at logging camps.
The camp is supervised by Tha Thao, an elephant expert, with an ardent love for elephants. Under his guidance, starved, beaten and over-worked animals have been restored to health and happiness.
The star of the camp is the baby, aged two, who is nicknamed ‘Sang Noi Kiddu’, meaning naughty baby elephant. She came to the camp with her devoted mother, Mae Kham Onh, 27, who is still feeding her. When Sang Noi Kiddu causes mayhem by stealing food, Tha says she rushes to one of her many surrogate aunties in the herd.
Mae–Mun Qao, 40, is the biggest elephant at the camp. She weighs a whopping 3500kg and eats around 10 percent of her body weight every day as well as drinking 160 litres of water a day. She keeps her doting mahouts very busy providing sustenance for her. The love and care they feel for their animals is very obvious.
We also met Keo meaning precious or gem, the only white elephant in Laos, Boun-Kam, 52, the eldest of the herd, and Kham Mun whose lumps, bumps and scars tell of her very troubled past in the logging camps.
I was happy to just pat, feed and commune with the elephants and chat to the staff but if you have time, Tha and the mahouts offer visitors the opportunity to experience and learn more about their elephants. You can ride an elephant, help the mahouts bathe them in the nearby river and even take a mahout course.
12. Kuang Si Butterfly Park
Also en route to the waterfall is Kuang Si Butterfly Park. Sadly, we didn’t have time to visit the park but others rate it very highly.
13. Cuisine
The restaurant overlooking the beautiful lily pond at Parasol Blanc, our hotel in Luang Prabang, served delicious Lao cuisine. My favourite dish was vegetarian spring rolls in rice paper with chilli and garlic dipping sauces. It was so tasty, I even had it for breakfast.
We also dined at the 3 Nagas where I sampled Khaiphaen Jeund or Mekong riverweed for the first time – similar to flatbread or lavosh, it’s delicious with spicy jam.
My favourite dish at Parasol Blanc, rice paper rolls with chilli and garlic dips.
The Blue Lagoon is an elegant eatery tucked down an alleyway off the main street where the night markets are held. The menu features an interesting fusion of Asian and Western dishes but I stuck with the Lao cuisine. I just couldn’t get enough of the lemongrass, shallot, chilli, garlic, mint, coriander, ginger, lime, tamarind and galangal flavours. I had an aromatic fish soup and a black rice and vegetable dish outside in the lantern-lit courtyard, served by a team of extremely attentive waiters. They even had two young men just opening and closing the doors to the restaurant.
Image credits: Justine Tyerman
* Justine Tyerman travelled with Innovative Travel, a Christchurch-based boutique tour operator with 27 years’ experience offering travellers the opportunity to explore historically and culturally unique destinations worldwide that provide a challenge but with the security of a peace-of-mind 24/7 wrap-around service and highly-qualified local guides. So important in a seriously-foreign country where the language, culture, customs and food are unfamiliar . . . not to mention the Lao currency known as kip.
* Travel Companions’ Club, ideal for solo travellers:
Getting there:
Singapore Airlines flies from Auckland to Singapore daily, from Wellington four times weekly, and from Christchurch daily: www.singaporeair.com
SilkAir flies from Singapore to Vientiane and Luang Prabang three times weekly: www.silkair.com
Fly to Laos from NZ$1203 return with Singapore Airlines' World Wanderlust Special Fares on sale until August 7.
Accommodation: Parasol Blanc, Luang Prabang, www.parasol-blanc.com.