Alex O'Brien
International Travel

Is the MCG the world’s greatest stadium?

A jewel in their city's crown, Melburnians lovingly call it "the G".

Built in 1853, the Melbourne Cricket Ground is the biggest stadium in the southern hemisphere with a capacity of about 100,000 people.

Like Wembley or Madison Square Garden, it was one of the world's great stadiums, hosting cricket in the summer and Aussie Rules (AFL) football in the winter.  In 1956, it was the centrepiece of the Olympics.

In late January the MCG hosted a Twenty20 cricket international between Australia and India.  Walking to the stadium for the match, it was hard not to think you were on your way to somewhere special.

Situated a short 20-minute walk away from the CBD, tens of thousands of people merged, ad hoc, for the procession to the G along a walkway by the Yarra River.

The stroll to the stadium spurred a great sense of occasion as Indian and Australian cricket fans mingled in the crowd, engaging in friendly verbal jousts.

"Dhoni, Dhoni, Dhoni," the Indian fans would chant, naming their beloved captain.

"Aussie Aussie Aussie - oi, oi, oi," the Aussies would reply.

The fans' enthusiasm would only grow as they neared the modern day colossus of a colosseum, the MCG.  An incredible stadium, the grass covered 171m x 146m field was encircled by vast tiered grandstands towered over by the tallest lights of any stadium in the world.

Heading inside, it was a pleasant surprise to find the MCG had not fallen overly foul of that classic stadium problem – over-priced food and drink.  Armed with a $6 beer and a $4 hotdog, it was time for the razzle dazzle of some T20 cricket.

Out in the grandstand, the imposing structure of 360-degree seating climbed steeply into the sky.  A hypnotic circle of seats and aisles, for those seated near the top it had a vertigo effect.

Glancing about, the crowd of 60,000 people was an eclectic mix of young and old, men and women, Indians and Australians.

Down in centrefield a pyrotechnics show lit up the night as the pre-match preparations were completed, and a loud speaker announcement declared the sport was about to begin.

Cue the national anthems and a rousing effort from each team's supporters doing their best to out-lung the other set the scene for the fan banter showdown ahead.

India strolled out to bat, and with their first two fours they got the party started.  The first sent Indian flags flying and the second feet dancing.  A few balls later and batsman Shikhar Dhawan sent one into the stands for six.  Fireworks shot into the sky and frivolity engulfed the crowd as die-hard Indian fans revved up the night.

Among the celebrating Indian fans were cricket-mad parents dancing along, holding their babies and toddlers aloft in two hands, waving them about in jubilation.

All in good nature, the Indian fans were on a long police leash, with the well-behaved supporters afforded respect by security who even allowed them drums.  The raucous Indian crowd had made the G their own.

The stadium announcer did his best to fire up the Aussie fans too, encouraging support for the green and gold side with calls of "coo-ee".  Australian fans would respond, echoing the cry, just as Aboriginals did in the call's original use as a means to locate others in the bush; its translation, "come here."

The call would repeat sporadically around the MCG that night - high-pitched and a bit annoying - but it would be hard to begrudge the locals when the Indian fans were getting their Bollywood on.

The stadium announcer brought a bit of dry comedy to the occasion too, with one-word jibes on the scoreboard remarking on players' misfortune; "fetch that" it would read after a ball was smashed into the stands.

There was no denying it though, this fan party was all about the rock stars of Indian cricket with chants and prostrations for these superstars.

Even the professional Australian dance troop pumping up the fans from their stage in the stands took on an Indian vibe with Bollywood-styled steps.  These came as a welcome break from the '90s classics, notably the ever-predictable and equally awesome classic Vanilla Ice track Ice Ice Baby.

A real highlight in the stands for the fans was the inevitable Mexican Wave - a real sight to behold as row upon row of fans rose and fell rhythmically in the tiered arena.  Ours that night was a success making two full circuits.

Australia struggled in the match, with India winning to claim the series victory, sending their fans into a frenzy of joy and admiration.  They got what they came for, victory and a night at the MCG.

Written by Ed Scragg. First appeared on Stuff.co.nz.

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Tags:
australia, travel, Melbourne, MCG, melbourne cricket ground