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What washing machine settings can I use to make my clothes last longer?

<div class="theconversation-article-body"> <p><em><a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/alessandra-sutti-1513345">Alessandra Sutti</a>, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/deakin-university-757">Deakin University</a>; <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/amol-patil-1513347">Amol Patil</a>, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/deakin-university-757">Deakin University</a>, and <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/maryam-naebe-1513346">Maryam Naebe</a>, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/deakin-university-757">Deakin University</a></em></p> <p>Orbiting 400 kilometres above Earth’s surface, the astronauts on the International Space Station live a pretty normal social life, if not for one thing: they happily wear their unwashed clothes <a href="https://www.nasa.gov/centers-and-facilities/glenn/nasa-glenn-interns-take-space-washing-machine-designs-for-a-spin/">for days and weeks at a time</a>. They can’t do their laundry <a href="https://www.esa.int/Enabling_Support/Space_Engineering_Technology/Keeping_your_underwear_clean_on_the_Moon">just yet</a> because water is scarce up there.</p> <p>But down here on Earth, washing clothes is a large part of our lives. <a href="https://bigee.net/media/filer_public/2013/03/28/bigee_domestic_washing_machines_worldwide_potential_20130328.pdf">It’s estimated</a> that a volume of water equivalent to 21,000 Olympic swimming pools is used every day for domestic laundry worldwide.</p> <p>Fibres from our clothes make their way into the environment via the air (during use or in the dryer), water (washing) and soil (lint rubbish in landfill). Most of this fibre loss is invisible – we often only notice our favourite clothing is “disappearing” when it’s too late.</p> <p>How can you ensure your favourite outfit will outlast your wish to wear it? Simple question, complex answer.</p> <h2>Washing machines are not gentle</h2> <p>When you clean the filters in your washing machine and dryer, how often do you stop to think that the lint you’re holding <a href="https://theconversation.com/uk-laundry-releases-microfibres-weighing-the-equivalent-of-1-500-buses-each-year-199712"><em>was</em>, in fact, your clothes</a>?</p> <p>Laundering is harsh on our clothes, and <a href="https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0250346">research confirms this</a>. Several factors play a role: the type of washing machine, the washing cycle, detergents, temperature, time, and the type of fabric and yarn construction.</p> <p>There are two types of domestic washing machines: top-loader and front-loader. Mechanical agitation (the way the machine moves the clothes around) is one of the things that helps ease dirt off the fabric.</p> <p>Top-loaders have a vertical, bucket-like basket with a paddle, which sloshes clothes around in a large volume of water. Front-loaders have a horizontal bucket which rotates, exposing the clothes to a smaller volume of water – it takes advantage of gravity, not paddles.</p> <p>Top-loading machines <a href="https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s12541-010-0047-7">tend to be more aggressive</a> towards fabrics than front-loaders due to the different mechanical action and larger volumes of water.</p> <p>Washing machine panels also present many choices. Shorter, low-temperature programs <a href="https://clevercare.info/more-eco-temperature-tips">are usually sufficient for everyday stains</a>. Choose longer or <a href="https://iprefer30.eu/animations/UK/wash-brochure-uk.pdf">high-temperature programs</a> only for clothing you have concerns about (healthcare uniforms, washable nappies, etc.).</p> <p>Generally, washing machine programs are carefully selected combinations of water volume, agitation intensity and temperature recommended by the manufacturer. They take into consideration the type of fabric and its level of cleanliness.</p> <p>Select the wrong program and you can say goodbye to your favourite top. For example, high temperatures or harsh agitation may cause some fibres to weaken and break, causing holes in the garment.</p> <h2>Some fabrics lose fibres more easily than others</h2> <p>At a microscopic level, the fabric in our clothes is made of yarns – individual fibres twisted together. The nature and length of the fibres, the way they are twisted and the way the yarns form the fabric can determine how many fibres will be lost during a wash.</p> <p>In general, if you want to lose fewer fibres, you should wash less frequently, but some fabrics are affected more than others.</p> <p>Open fabric structures (knits) with loose yarns <a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-021-98836-6">can lose more fibres</a> than tighter ones. Some sports clothing, like running shirts, are made of continuous filament yarn. These fibres are less likely to come loose in the wash.</p> <p>Cotton fibres are only a few centimetres long. Twisted tightly together into a yarn, they can still escape.</p> <p>Wool fibres are also short, but have an additional feature: scales, which make wool clothes much more delicate. Wool fibres can come loose like cotton ones, but also tangle with each other during the wash due to their scales. This last aspect is what causes wool garments to shrink when <a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/004051756403400303">exposed to heat</a> and agitation.</p> <h2>Go easy on the chemicals</h2> <p>The type of detergent and other products you use also makes a difference.</p> <p>Detergents contain a soap component, enzymes to make stains easier to remove at low temperature, and fragrances. Some contain harsher compounds, such as bleaching or whitening agents.</p> <p>Modern detergents are very effective at <a href="https://www.choice.com.au/home-and-living/laundry-and-cleaning/laundry-detergents/review-and-compare/laundry-detergents">removing stains such as food</a>, and you don’t need to use much.</p> <p>An incorrect choice of wash cycles, laundry detergent and bleaching additives could cause disaster. Certain products, like bleach, can <a href="https://site.extension.uga.edu/textiles/textile-basics/understand-your-fibers/">damage some fibres like wool and silk</a>.</p> <p>Meanwhile, research on <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0269749120366872?via%3Dihub">fabric softeners and other treatments</a> <a href="https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article/file?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0233332&amp;type=printable">continues</a> – there’s no one-size-fits-all answer about their potential impact on our clothes.</p> <h2>Just skip laundry day</h2> <p>So, how to ensure your clothes last longer? The main tip is to wash them less often.</p> <p>When it’s time for a wash, carefully read and follow the care labels. In the future, our washing machines will <a href="https://www.teknoscienze.com/tks_article/trends-in-laundry-by-2030/">recognise fabrics and select the wash cycle</a>. For now, that’s our responsibility.</p> <p>And the next time you throw your shirt into the dirty laundry basket, stop. Think of the astronauts orbiting above Earth and ask yourself: if they can go without clean laundry for a few days, maybe I can too? (Although we don’t recommend just burning your dirty undies, either.)<!-- Below is The Conversation's page counter tag. Please DO NOT REMOVE. --><img style="border: none !important; box-shadow: none !important; margin: 0 !important; max-height: 1px !important; max-width: 1px !important; min-height: 1px !important; min-width: 1px !important; opacity: 0 !important; outline: none !important; padding: 0 !important;" src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/224064/count.gif?distributor=republish-lightbox-basic" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" /><!-- End of code. If you don't see any code above, please get new code from the Advanced tab after you click the republish button. The page counter does not collect any personal data. More info: https://theconversation.com/republishing-guidelines --></p> <figure><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/C1j6KLP492E?wmode=transparent&amp;start=0" width="440" height="260" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></figure> <p><em><a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/alessandra-sutti-1513345">Alessandra Sutti</a>, Associate Professor, Institute for Frontier Materials, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/deakin-university-757">Deakin University</a>; <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/amol-patil-1513347">Amol Patil</a>, Research Engineer, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/deakin-university-757">Deakin University</a>, and <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/maryam-naebe-1513346">Maryam Naebe</a>, Associate professor, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/deakin-university-757">Deakin University</a></em></p> <p><em>Image credits: Shutterstock</em></p> <p><em>This article is republished from <a href="https://theconversation.com">The Conversation</a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the <a href="https://theconversation.com/what-washing-machine-settings-can-i-use-to-make-my-clothes-last-longer-224064">original article</a>.</em></p> </div>

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The surprising reason you shouldn’t bring camouflage clothing on a cruise

<p><strong>Dress codes</strong></p> <p>If you’ve been on a cruise before, then you’re probably aware that dress codes are still a thing. In fact, clothing recommendations are quite common, as some of the best cruise lines have formal nights, dress-to-impress evenings and planned costume or themed cruise events. So rules about what you can and cannot wear aren’t abnormal.</p> <p>As such, packing for a cruise is no easy feat: You’ll need formalwear for nights, pool wear for the day, outfits for excursions and layers for inclement weather. I’m an avid cruise-goer, and there are a number of items I never board a cruise ship without, but there’s also one thing I absolutely never pack for a cruise headed for the Philippines or the Caribbean: camouflage clothing.</p> <p><strong>Why is camouflage clothing inadvisable?</strong></p> <p>It actually has nothing to do with the formality of your wardrobe. Camouflage clothing happens to be illegal to wear in many countries that are popular cruise destinations. According to cruise liner Royal Caribbean, the Philippines, Antigua, Barbados, Grenada, Jamaica, St. Lucia and Trinidad and Tobago are among those that prohibit camouflage.</p> <p>And while camouflage print clothing and accessories, as well as military-style clothing, aren’t technically banned onboard cruises, most cruise companies will simply ask you not to pack them to curb any potential issues at ports.</p> <p><strong>Why is camouflage clothing banned in these countries?</strong></p> <p>In most countries that prohibit camouflage, it’s because the disguising clothing is reserved for military personnel only. And it’s important to be respectful of this camouflage-free rule, which I learned while travelling to Nevis about seven years ago. My friend was stopped by hotel staff who advised her to change out of her camouflaged pants if she planned to leave the property. Not understanding the seemingly odd request without any context or explanation, we asked what would happen if she didn’t comply. Their response? She could get fined or arrested. As you can imagine, those cute camo pants were then stuffed into her suitcase for the remainder of our stay.</p> <p>“It is a concern because of the affiliation with criminal gangs as well as armed forces,” says Lauren Doyle, a travel advisor and president of boutique travel agency The Travel Mechanic. She says that to avoid any confusion and help curb any potential issues in the future, cruise lines simply advise against bringing it onboard.</p> <p>Doyle, who has booked many cruises for customers, says this information is usually found on a cruise line’s website (which is why it’s important to brush up on cruise tips prior to setting sail), and that many cruise lines will include it in their daily newsletter or app if you’re going to any country that prohibits it.</p> <p><strong>What to do if you accidentally pack camouflage clothing</strong></p> <p>If you’ve packed a camo hat, bathing suit, cargo pants or the camouflage backpack you carry, just leave it on the ship, even if you’re unsure of restrictions on what to wear in certain ports of call.</p> <p>Generally, you can wear camo clothing while you’re onboard, just not during excursions or on land. So if you’ve packed it, go ahead and rock your camo print at the breakfast buffet or on the pool deck (as you ponder those big white balls on the cruise deck). And while you could probably technically wear your camo while chilling on your stateroom balcony, if it’s viewable to the country you’re visiting, it may still be considered disrespectful, so we don’t recommend it.</p> <p><strong>What else is prohibited on a cruise ship?</strong></p> <p>There are plenty of things you can’t do on a cruise, but what about things you shouldn’t bring to begin with? There are a few more surprising items Doyle recommends leaving at home. “Small appliances – like hot plates, steamers or irons – are also prohibited, along with electric blankets,” Doyle says. “Also, medical marijuana is not allowed on cruise ships. Drones are not allowed either.”</p> <p>Each cruise line lists prohibited items on their website, along with some exceptions, so be sure to consult their information before you start packing.</p> <p><em>Image credits: Shutterstock</em></p> <p><em>This article originally appeared on <a href="https://www.readersdigest.com.au/travel/cruising/the-surprising-reason-you-shouldnt-bring-camouflage-clothing-on-a-cruise" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Reader's Digest</a>. </em></p>

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Anti-vegan chef launches clothing line against activist

<p dir="ltr">Chef John Mountain has taken his feud with vegan activist Tash Peterson to the next level by unveiling a clothing line that names and shames her and her animal rights beliefs. </p> <p dir="ltr">The Perth chef, who has taken legal action against Ms Peterson after the pair tussled during protests at his restaurant Fyre, showed off the provocative range of tank-tops, t-shirts and hoodies on his new merchandise website.</p> <p dir="ltr">The merch page, which was launched on Saturday, promises customers will love the clothing “hopefully more than Tash loves chef”.</p> <p dir="ltr">It is now selling clothing that carries the restaurant's branding and slogans such as “Pleased to meat stew”, “no animals were harmed in the making of this shirt” and “all they have done is added fuel to the Fyre”.</p> <p dir="ltr">One t-shirt design features a half-star Google-style review graphic with the words: “Absolutely f***ing chaotic Tash Peterson”, which makes fun of Ms Peterson's description of a protest and the flood of Fyre reviews posted by vegans.</p> <p dir="ltr">Another design asks. “What's the difference between a vegan and a heroin addict? The vegan keeps it to themselves.”</p> <p dir="ltr">The clothing line comes after John Mountain announced all vegans would be banned from his restaurant due to “mental health reasons”.</p> <p dir="ltr">Mountain and Peterson have clashed several times at the Perth eatery, with Peterson’s latest demonstration resulting in legal action being taken against the staunch vegan and animal rights activist. </p> <p dir="ltr">After Peterson <a href="https://oversixty.com.au/finance/legal/furious-chef-lets-loose-after-clash-with-vegan-protestors" target="_blank" rel="noopener">stormed</a> his booked-out restaurant with other activists in tow, they stood outside with a megaphone, while shouting and playing sounds of squealing pigs, moments before the altercation was caught on camera.</p> <p dir="ltr">Mountain and Peterson came to physical blows as he wrestled them out of the restaurant, as he defended his choice to retaliate against the protestors, saying he chose to stand up to the bullies to "protect my business". </p> <p dir="ltr">"Bullies come in all different shapes and sizes and these lot just happen to be the vegans."</p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Image credits: A Current Affair / Fyre</em></p>

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10 ways to upcycle old clothes

<h2>What is upcycling?</h2> <p>Upcycling, also known as ‘creative reuse,’ refers to the method of repurposing a used item into something else. In the context of upcycling clothes, it means taking an old piece of clothing that’s tattered, worn, broken, ripped or frayed and giving it new life so it can be worn or used again.</p> <p>“If you’ve heard the phrase ‘turning trash into treasure,’ that’s exactly what upcycling is,” explains Laura Wittig, CEO and founder of sustainable online platform Brightly. “Essentially, upcycling means taking something old – that would likely be destined for the landfill – and turning it into something new.”</p> <h2>What are the benefits of upcycling?</h2> <p>When you upcycle just about anything, you’re prolonging the item’s life and ultimately preventing it from heading to the landfill – or, at least, extending its life prior to the landfill. You’re choosing to get more use out of the item before throwing it away.</p> <p>“Upcycling is one of the best things you can do for the planet,” Wittig says. “It gives a new life to something that would typically be thrown away, keeping waste out of landfills. Aside from reducing waste, it also minimises the use of new materials needed to produce new products, as well as reduces the carbon emissions from mass manufacturing.” This means you’re also reducing your carbon footprint.</p> <p>Reader’s Digest consulted Stephanie Moram, CEO and founder Good Girl Gone Green and host of the Green Junkie podcast. She adds: “Upcycling reduces landfill waste and textile waste, requires less energy than recycling, saves natural resources – and therefore reduces greenhouse gas emissions in the process – encourages creativity, encourages sustainability practices and [results in] one-of-a-kind products.” Talk about a win-win!</p> <p>There’s also an undeniable monetary benefit to upcycling. “When you need something, your go-to response is probably buying something new. It’s something we’re all so used to doing,” Wittig notes. “But upcycling what you already have not only reduces waste – it also saves you a lot of money.”</p> <h2>What types of clothing can you upcycle?</h2> <p>Just about any type of clothing can be upcycled, as long as you have a vision and a little bit of imagination.</p> <p>“Clothing is one of the easiest things to upcycle,” Wittig says. “You can turn old jeans into jean shorts, tote bags and household items like wall organisers. T-shirts can be transformed into produce bags, doormats and hanging planters. You can even upcycle old socks, turning them into cleaning rags, erasers for whiteboards and bean bags for outdoor activities. The options are truly endless.”</p> <p>Clothing that can be easily upcycled includes (but is not limited to):</p> <ul> <li>T-shirts</li> <li>Sweaters</li> <li>Denim</li> <li>Jackets</li> <li>Shoes</li> <li>Pants</li> <li>Dresses</li> <li>Skirts</li> <li>Socks</li> <li>Sweatshirts</li> </ul> <p>In fact, even something as occasion- and fabric-specific as wedding gowns can be upcycled. Just take it from Nadia Manjarrez, creative director and founder of Nadia Manjarrez Studio Bridal, who launched both her debut bridal collection and a unique upcycling program last season, to much anticipation. “We upcycle wedding gowns and turn them into another meaningful garment,” Manjarrez tells Reader’s Digest.</p> <p>And the demand is certainly there. Global search for ‘upcycle wedding dress ideas’ has increased by 33 per cent versus the year prior, and ‘upcycled wedding dress’ is even a popular search on Etsy as of late, turning up small-business vendors who transform gowns into handkerchiefs and other special mementos.</p> <p>Manjarrez’s clients have the option of then, post-wedding, returning their wedding garment so that it can be altered or reconstructed for another future occasion. The process – a transformation, really – takes place at the brand’s atelier in Culiacán, Mexico, and takes anywhere from six to eight weeks. Manjarrez and her all-female team consult with customers in person and/or via email and video to turn wedding gowns into the repurposed, upcycled garments of their clients’ dreams.</p> <p>Some brides who anticipate having children in the future may even opt to upcycle their wedding dress into a christening gown for their future child. How crafty (and special!) is that? Celebrities are even hopping on board the upcycled-wedding-dress bandwagon. Emma Watson made her first red-carpet appearance in years in October 2021 donning an upcycled wedding dress designed by Harris Reed.</p> <h2>What to look for in clothes to be upcycled?</h2> <p>Though just about any piece of clothing can be upcycled, some fabrics are easier to work with than others. “The easiest materials to upcycle include any sort of denim and cotton T-shirts, but you can also find plenty of ways to use sweaters, blouses – really anything in your closet,” Wittig says. “You just need to get creative!”</p> <p>However, you may not want to upcycle more valuable clothing. Instead, you might want to sell vintage or brand-name pieces on a secondhand marketplace like Poshmark, Mercari, ThredUp or even Etsy. Sure, these clothes can technically be upcycled, but you’ll likely find more value in simply reselling them if you just don’t want them anymore.</p> <p>That being said, there still is quite a market for upcycling designer clothes and accessories. Demand for luxury items repurposed as fun (cheaper) accessories, like designer bags turned into baseball caps or pins, has search for terms like ‘upcycling Louis Vuitton’ on the rise. And Etsy isn’t just a spot for reselling vintage items or clothing of value, either; the online platform is seeing an uptick in searches for upcycled items and has always been a destination for makers of upcycled items. Because if anyone can learn how to upcycle everything, it’s the people of Etsy. Dayna Isom Johnson, a trend expert at Etsy, told the Wall Street Journal, “On Etsy, you will find over 10,000 search results for recycled tie items that are made into pillows, mini skirts, capes, grief quilts and more.”</p> <p>As long as you have a vision, the opportunities really are endless. “When it comes to upcycling, it just really depends on what you want to create,” Moram adds. “Some fabrics are more durable than others. My favourites are natural fibres.”</p> <h2>What clothes can you not upcycle?</h2> <p>There are very few restrictions with upcycling clothes. What will be trickier to upcycle (and/or recycle), however, is anything with grand embellishments – think sequins, metallics or anything with a lot of beading or embroidery. If you put your mind to it, though, just about any piece of clothing, regardless of fabric, can be upcycled into something else.</p> <p>And what about items to recycle vs upcycle? If you’re trying to recycle clothes, it’s imperative that the fabric is dry and clean. An item’s various fixtures, such as buttons, zippers and other kinds of non-fabric closures, should also be removed before recycling clothes. Blended fabrics may also cause a recycling hiccup while going through the conveyor belt of recycling machines. For this reason, blended fabrics may lend themselves better to being upcycled rather than recycled.</p> <p>Recycled polyester can also pose challenges for recycling centres. Sure, we see clothing made of recycled polyester – most often derived from recycled PET water bottles – all the time. But contrary to popular belief, polyester can be recycled only so many times before it loses quality. For that reason, recycled polyester is better for upcycling than continued recycling.</p> <p>“When it comes to recycling fabrics, the best materials are natural fibres,” Moram adds. “Blended materials, like polyester and nylon, are harder to recycle.”</p> <h2>10 ways to upcycle clothing</h2> <p>OK, it’s time to get creative! And if you’re not all that crafty, don’t worry. As you’ll see below, you don’t need a ton of sewing know-how to pull off most of these easy upcycling projects.</p> <ol> <li><strong>Dye it</strong></li> </ol> <p>Whether it’s an old bridesmaid dress or a shirt with a stain on it, dye can give a once-worn item new life. “[It’s] such a great idea to dye clothing to hide those stains,” Moram says. “You can buy some fabric-safe dyes, or use scraps you have around the house, like onions or avocado skin and pits, instead.”</p> <ol start="2"> <li><strong>Patch it</strong></li> </ol> <p>You don’t have to be a whiz with a sewing machine to patch over holes or rips. Use a needle and thread (or a sewing machine) to attach a patch, or even try gluing it on. Manjarrez adds, “Sometimes patches are iron-on and don’t even need to be sewn, but I prefer to create patches from a similar fabric to make it look more intentional and not like you are covering a mistake.”</p> <ol start="3"> <li><strong>Embroider it</strong></li> </ol> <p>Everything from T-shirts to jeans can be embroidered. All you need is a needle and thread – and a little time to learn a new pastime. “Embroidering is such an easy way to upcycle a pair of jeans you no longer wear,” Wittig says. “You can even mend a hole with embroidery, giving the jeans a new look and saving them at the same time.”</p> <ol start="4"> <li><strong>Cut it</strong></li> </ol> <p>Avoid hearing “Where’s the flood?” every time you wear your too-short jeans. Instead, whip out the scissors and start fresh. “The simplest way would be to just cut [old jeans into] shorts – as short as you want them – and you are ready to go,” Moram explains. “If you don’t want the frayed look, you can use a needle and thread and hem them.” Old, too-short or out-of-style denim can also be easily cut (and/or hemmed) into a skirt.</p> <ol start="5"> <li><strong>Turn it into a quilt</strong></li> </ol> <p>Yes, like when Bella’s mum gifts her a blanket made of their old trip T-shirts in Breaking Dawn. According to Wittig, you’ll need about 15 shirts for a smaller, lap-size blanket and even more for something as big as a quilt.</p> <p>“Start by selecting old garments with fun colours or patterns that would look good together,” Manjarrez advises. “Then cut each one the size you want for the quilt. Stitch or sew the T-shirts together. Once it is all put together, stitch or sew the quilt’s border.”</p> <ol start="6"> <li><strong>Turn it into a tote</strong></li> </ol> <p>Stop getting single-use plastic bags (or even paper bags) at the grocery store, and instead, make your own eco-friendly tote bags. Moram suggests using an old sweater or T-shirt for this project. “You can use them as produce bags, grocery bags, shoe bags, shopping bags and anywhere you would use a traditional cotton bag,” she says.</p> <p>And totes are just the beginning. Manjarrez likes the idea of DIYing a makeup bag by sewing the fabric into a rectangle and simply adding a button.</p> <ol start="7"> <li><strong>Turn it into a scrunchie</strong></li> </ol> <p>“What a fun project to do with your kids,” Moram says. “It could be as simple as cutting your fabrics from an old T-shirt to use as a hair ribbon or stitching together a piece of cloth to make a hair tie (without an elastic).” You can even tie-dye it!</p> <p>You can also transform old fabric into another gym accessory. “You can turn [an old tee] into sweat bandanas to keep sweat out of your face when working out,” Manjarrez adds.</p> <ol start="8"> <li><strong>Give it to the dog</strong></li> </ol> <p>You can turn old fabric into anything from a pet bed or blanket to even a toy or pet-sized T-shirt – and your pet will love that it smells like you. “For small dogs and cats, use an old pillowcase to make a bed,” Moram recommends. “Take old clothing and cut it into strips and fill the pillowcase with it. Stitch with a needle and thread, or sew the opening of the pillowcase.” Here’s one tutorial that doesn’t even require a sewing machine, just some creating tying.</p> <ol start="9"> <li><strong>Use it to clean your house</strong></li> </ol> <p>Old baby onesies? A long-sleeved shirt that no longer fits or is stained beyond recognition? All that and more make excellent cleaning cloths. “If your clothing is too worn out to upcycle, don’t toss it out,” Wittig urges. “Instead, cut it into squares to use as reusable cleaning cloths around the house. Once they’re all dirty, simply run them through the wash and keep them in a bin under the sink.”</p> <ol start="10"> <li><strong>Transform it into gift wrap</strong></li> </ol> <p>Instead of wasting money on single-use wrapping paper, ‘gift wrap’ presents using fabric-wrapping techniques. “Fold the fabric over the gift, gather the fabric edges, and pull upward,” Moram says. “Knot the fabric tails. So simple!”</p> <h2>Upcycling is a win-win</h2> <p>See? Upcycling isn’t nearly as complicated as it’s sometimes made out to be. With a little bit of glue, (maybe) a needle and thread, and some innovation, you can keep just about any clothing item from wasting away in the landfill by extending its life. After all, doing something as actionable as upcycling your clothes instead of throwing them out is a truly meaningful way to help the planet and even stave off any climate anxiety you may be experiencing about the current climate crisis.</p> <p><em>Image credit: Shutterstock</em></p> <p><em>This article originally appeared on <a href="https://www.readersdigest.com.au/food-home-garden/diy-projects/10-ways-to-upcycle-old-clothes" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Reader's Digest</a>.</em></p>

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Backlash to new kids clothing line sees Target lose billions

<p dir="ltr">Target has lost billions in market valuation as its Pride-themed kids line continues to face backlash.</p> <p dir="ltr">Target shares were trading at $160.96 (A$246.18) a share, which means their market valuation was roughly around $74.3 billion (A$113 billion)</p> <p dir="ltr">The Minneapolis-based retailer’s stock value dropped drastically following the calls to boycott their “PRIDE” collection, at just $138.93 (A$212) a share as of Friday, which is a 14 per cent drop in value to around $64.2 billion (A$98 billion) , according to The New York Times.</p> <p dir="ltr">This roughly translates to a $10.1 billion (A$15 billion) loss in valuation.</p> <p dir="ltr">The plummet is the retailer's lowest stock price in nearly three years, and the last time any company’s stock plummeted this intensely was in 2022 after the stocks equalised during the pandemic.</p> <p dir="ltr">Target has since moved its Pride section away from the front of the store in some Southern states, following displays being knocked over by protesters, who also confronted the workers.</p> <p dir="ltr">They also said they would remove items from the collection but didn’t specify which ones.</p> <p dir="ltr">Some of the clothes receiving backlash were the rainbow-themed children’s clothing, and a “tuck-friendly” swimsuit for trans women, who have not yet had their gender-affirming surgeries, to conceal their genitalia.</p> <p dir="ltr">Target CEO Brian Cornell has defended the LBGTQ-friendly clothing line and has said that selling them was “the right thing for society.”</p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Images: Getty</em></p>

Money & Banking

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5 essential tips for buying clothes online

<p>It all seems so easy – a few clicks and you can have a pretty pile of clothes (or shoes, bags, jewellery – anything you like really) delivered to your door.</p> <p>But if you’ve ever gotten a bit click-happy with your online shop and then had buyer’s remorse, read on. We’ve got some advice that will ensure you’re left with nothing but five-star reviews for the items you purchased.</p> <p><strong>1. Buy from stores you trust</strong></p> <p>Often we are left dissatisfied when we buy clothes from a brand we don’t know. The fit isn’t quite right, or the quality might be off. Try to point your credit card at labels that you know and love. You’ll know your true size, you’ll know how well the clothes stay in shape after ten washes, and you’ll know you can return it with no hassles.</p> <p><strong>2. Check your wardrobe</strong></p> <p>Often we are attracted to clothes that we think we love, but it turns out we already own something pretty similar. This could explain why you might have five blue and white striped tops (and so perhaps you don’t need another?). Think about whether the items you want to buy fit into your current collection. If you’re buying shorts, do you have some shirts to go with them? If you have your eye on a dress, do your sandals go with it?</p> <p><strong>3. Check the returns policy</strong></p> <p>Many online shopping hubs offer free returns – but it always pays to check the details. Some will only offer store credit, while others offer your money back (no question asked). You’ll also want to be sure that you can either return the items in the post (without paying for postage), or that you can pop in-store to get a refund in person. Don’t get stuck with a bag full of ill-fitting clothes that you can’t easily give back.</p> <p><strong>4. Look for discounts first</strong></p> <p>Many sites offer discounts online, but you have to know where to look to find them. Simply search online for the store name and the word ‘discount coupon’ and you should find a few options to try. Or if you want to save time, download the Honey app, which automatically applies any working coupon available on the web. Then just enjoy the savings.</p> <p><strong>5. Sign up to be notified about sales</strong></p> <p>If there is a brand or site you use often, sign up to the newsletter so that you’re in the loop about big discount sales. Often there are change of season sales, pre- and post-Christmas offers, and more. Stay in the know and plan your splurges accordingly, rather than buying now and then seeing everything half price the following week.</p> <p><em>Image credits: Getty Images</em></p>

Beauty & Style

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11 ways your clothes could be killing you

<p><strong>Toxic fabrics</strong></p> <p>Man-made fabrics like polyester, nylon, rayon, and acrylic are dripping with dyes and chemicals. “These textiles are made with potentially toxic fibres, particularly those designed with fashion or convenience in mind,” explains Dr Gabriella Farkas. “Beware of stain resistant, insect-repelling, flame-retardant, water-repellent, waterproof, perspiration-proof, anti-static, anti-cling, and anti-shrink fabrics.” Just to name a few.</p> <p>The more benefits from said apparel, the more you might be subjecting yourself to toxic chemicals. “Those chemicals may separate from the clothes, set up shop on your skin, and eventually enter your bloodstream,” adds Caleb Backe, a health and wellness expert. This may spur a rash, but it’s even more concerning that the US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention has found that some chemicals in workout clothing like Dimethylformamide may be linked to liver damage. Opt for natural fibres, ideally organic, such as cotton, wool, silk, flax, and hemp.</p> <p><strong>High heels</strong></p> <p>Pumps and t-strap heels are causing you a lot more than just foot pain and blisters – wearing high heels days can actually lead to a shortened calf. When you slide on high heels day-in and day-out, anatomically the ankle becomes raised and the calf muscles contract.</p> <p>As these muscle fibres stiffen and become thicker, it can lead to discomfort when you’ve opted for flats. Ultimately, shortened calves may force you to walk on your tippy toes when you’re barefoot to avoid pain.</p> <p><strong>Skin tight jeans</strong></p> <p>You don’t need a Renaissance-style lace corset to trigger poor circulation, swollen legs, and blood clots – all you need are skinny jeans. A woman was cut out of her skinnies and hospitalised for four days after suffering numbness in her feet after squatting as she helped a relative move.</p> <p>And a study published in the <em>Journal of Neurology Neurosurgery &amp; Psychiatry</em> found that skinny jeans can damage muscle and nerve fibres in the legs.</p> <p><strong>Laundry detergent </strong></p> <p>Suffering from inexplicable bumps, redness, and rashes? Your laundry routine could be to blame. “Dyes and fragrances in detergent and laundry soaps contain chemicals that clean, deodorise, and disinfect,” explains Dr Jeffrey Fromowitz, a dermatologist. “For people with eczema or extremely sensitive skin, even the slightest contact can trigger a reaction.”</p> <p>He recommends avoiding dyes, fragrances, and harsh detergents and opting for liquid products, as they tend to leave fewer residues than powders. Use the “extra rinse” setting on your washing machine and keep your washing machine clean (i.e. lint-, dust-, and mould-free).</p> <p><strong>What you're not washing</strong></p> <p>Winter coats, scarves, and gloves that are washed only once per season are teeming with viruses and bacteria that can make you sick. Turns out, you should be washing hats and scarves weekly. Pyjamas should be washed daily and neckties that have grazed lunch tables and more should take a tumble every couple of wears, too.</p> <p><strong>Thongs and G-Strings</strong></p> <p>The issue with thongs isn’t necessarily the design, but what it’s composed of. Non-breathable materials trap moisture and can lead to urinary tract infections and yeast infections. Think a cotton crotch will do the trick? Think again. It’s just not enough to allow evaporation of moisture that breeds bacteria and helps maintain a healthy vaginal acidity.</p> <p>Since it is skimpy, make sure the next fabric your underwear makes contact with, i.e. skinny jeans, also offer a degree of breathability, too.</p> <p><strong>Bulky handbags</strong></p> <p>When walking with a big, bulky bag, we tend to raise our opposite shoulder to compensate for the weight. According to the Express Tribune, this may throw your sway off-kilter and lead to a collapsed foot arch corresponding to your weighted shoulder and a curved spine.</p> <p>This can ultimately lead to shoulder and neck pain, a trapped nerve, radiating pain into the arms, and carpal tunnel syndrome. Cue in back pain and arthritis as well. Consider switching to a backpack or distributing the weight between both shoulders evenly.</p> <p><strong>Flip flops or thongs</strong></p> <p>Flip flops are the official mascot of summer, but according to Katy Bowman, a biomechanist and author of Simple Steps to Foot Pain Relief, they fall short in a big way. “You have to clench the muscles in your feet the entire time you’re wearing them so they don’t fall off.” This can lead to shortened toe muscles, called hammer toes, and gait and balance changes, and it can affect how your whole body moves.</p> <p>“The ‘grip’ to keep footwear on makes some toe bones curl up and some down,” she adds. “It drives the end of some bones into the ground, creating higher-than-normal pressure which can lead to toe injury over time.” That friction can also lead to corns and calluses over time if there’s something for the toes to rub on overtop.</p> <p><strong>Compression garments</strong></p> <p>Compression around the midsection can be dangerous, too. Enter: Spanx and other smoothing garments. It can cause heartburn, bloating, gas, and nerve compression. What’s more, it can crush your organs and prevent your digestive system from working properly.</p> <p>According to a report by HuffPost, it can even cause blood clots and varicose veins. And that’s not all: Tight clothing of any sort can also trap moisture on the skin and cause infections and rashes, too.</p> <p><strong>Wrinkle-free clothing</strong></p> <p>Need a solid reason to toss that new top in the washer before wearing it to date night? Wrinkle-free clothing may be finished with a layer of formaldehyde, a known carcinogen that is not regulated in some countries.</p> <p><strong>Vintage clothing</strong></p> <p>What about used clothes whose source is unknown? “Bacteria, parasites, and fungi from a variety of diseases can survive on clothing for extended periods of time,” says Dr Farkas.</p> <p>Substantial heat is typically required to kill off any organisms, and experts recommend tumbling clothing with suspected ticks and other bugs in the dryer for 45 minutes before tossing them into the washer.</p> <p><em>Image credits: Getty Images</em></p> <p><em>This article originally appeared on <a href="https://www.readersdigest.com.au/healthsmart/11-ways-your-clothes-could-be-killing-you?pages=1" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Reader's Digest</a>. </em></p>

Beauty & Style

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Aussie designer wins lawsuit against Katy Perry

<p dir="ltr">One of Katy Perry’s companies has been found guilty of infringing the trademark of a Sydney fashion designer.</p> <p dir="ltr">Katie Jane Taylor has designed and sold her own line of clothing under her label ‘Katie Perry’ since 2008.</p> <p dir="ltr">While the pop superstar Perry, born Katheryn Hudson, initially fought the Australian registration of the Katie Perry brand, she later withdrew it. </p> <p dir="ltr">Taylor sued the singer for infringement in the Federal Court in 2019, more than a decade after the <em>Firework</em> singer started selling her own brand of merchandise, including clothing, under her stage name. </p> <p dir="ltr">“This is a tale of two women, two teenage dreams and one name,” Justice Brigitte Markovic wrote in a judgement published on April 29 2023.</p> <p dir="ltr">Judge Markovic found Hudson had infringed the mark on Twitter ahead of one of her Australian tours in 2014.</p> <p dir="ltr">Despite the infringement, the judge concluded that the singer did not owe any compensation to the designer as she had used the trademark in “good faith”.</p> <p dir="ltr">One of the singer’s other businesses Kitty Purry however is liable for damages because of the sale of clothing during her 2014 tour. </p> <p dir="ltr">A bid by the star and her companies to cancel the Katy Perry trademark was dismissed by the Federal Court.</p> <p dir="ltr">Markovic is yet to determine the amount of damages owed by Kitty Purry. </p> <p><span id="docs-internal-guid-6c0faee1-7fff-5497-933e-14ee948d4dac"></span></p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Image credit: Getty</em></p>

Legal

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Cruise passenger left without a single change of clothes in a lost luggage nightmare

<p>When Australian grandmother Cheryl Stuchbery and her husband, John, set sail with Royal Caribbean cruises from Sydney to New Zealand, they thought they were embarking on their dream holiday. </p> <p>But some dreams are destined to turn into nightmares, as Cheryl soon learned, when it was revealed that staff aboard the cruise liner had lost her suitcase. </p> <p>For the next 11 days, Cheryl was left without so much as a change of clothes, forced to wear the same outfit time and time again. John helped as much as he could, offering his own underwear so that his wife wasn’t entirely going without. </p> <p>Speaking to Australia’s <em>A Current Affair</em>, Cheryl admitted that the entire experience had left her “very depressed. I was in tears a lot at the time.”</p> <p>“Cheryl ended up wearing my knickers,” John explained, adding that it only made sense, because his clothes had actually been available.</p> <p>"I've put a pair on, but the only thing is, I couldn't fill out the little pouch in the front," Cheryl added.</p> <p>When the staff were unable to locate her bag on the second day of the trip, they offered to wash her one outfit for her. Every morning, they would drop by, collect her things, and take them off to wash and dry. </p> <p>While this ensured Cheryl had clean clothes to wear each day, it also meant she started them with three hours sitting in her cabin and waiting. </p> <p>“They [would] give Cheryl a t-shirt and a dressing gown,” John explained, “so for the first sort of three hours each day, we're sitting in the room waiting for the clothes to come back.”</p> <p>In the time since, Cheryl has tried to find humour in the whole situation, though she certainly hadn’t even been able to consider it at the time. </p> <p>It wasn’t the first time the couple had set out on a cruise, it was just the first that their belongings hadn’t made it along with them. </p> <p>“They did say it was very unusual for a suitcase not to turn up at all,” Cheryl noted. </p> <p>“For quite a bit of time we felt that it had been stolen because they'd searched the ship," John said. </p> <p>And, in timing that came as no help to the cruising couple, Cheryl’s bag turned up the very day after they’d arrived back in Sydney. </p> <p>To make matters even worse, it had been onboard the whole time.</p> <p>As John put it, “it had been on [the] boat all the time and they say, 'well, that's okay, you've got your case back'.”</p> <p>Royal Caribbean have since issued a statement in apology, writing that they “sincerely apologise for misplacing Mr and Mrs Stuchbery's luggage. During their cruise, Mr and Mrs Stuchbery were provided with complimentary express laundry, an onboard credit to assist with purchasing incidental items, and specialty dining. </p> <p>“The luggage was located on return to Sydney and Mr and Mrs Stuchbery have been offered additional compensation and documentation to support a claim via their travel insurance.”</p> <p>But it hasn’t done anything to help the sour taste of the whole ordeal left in the Stuchbery’s mouths, with Cheryl declaring that she still “feel[s] very angry.” </p> <p><em>Images: A Current Affair / Nine</em></p>

Cruising

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10 ways you’re doing your ironing wrong

<p>Some people like ironing, stopping at nothing but pressing their underwear. These individuals usually love their Sunday ritual of tackling four piles of laundry with a cup of tea and a midday movie for company.</p> <p>There’s even a group of extreme ironing enthusiasts, who’ve combined their love for action sports with the satisfaction of a well-pressed shirt. They swear by its meditative qualities: the repetitive movement; the hiss of the steam; the elimination of creases, one by one.</p> <p>Then there’s the rest of the population, who’ll do everything they can to avoid it: from only buying wrinkle-free fabrics to hanging garments in the bathroom for the shower steam to work its magic. They don’t call it a “chore” for nothing, people.</p> <p>Unfortunately, life thrusts at us many occasions that require whatever we’re wearing to receive a good press. Whichever camp you fall in – seasoned or sporadic – you’re poised to benefit from these practical tips.</p> <p><strong>1. Over-drying your clothes</strong></p> <p>Having them hang for too long, frying in the sun or on the heater, can over-dry clothes, leaving them stiff as cardboard and crispy in texture. They become difficult to reshape and harder to iron. Also, be wary of how long they’re in the dryer, especially if you don’t have one of the more advanced “moisture-sensing” models.</p> <p><strong>2. Not shaking clothes out</strong></p> <p>As you’re taking your clothes off the line and out of the dryer, don’t forget to shake them out. This smooths seams and pleats, making them easier to iron later down the line.</p> <p><strong>3. Not protecting delicates</strong></p> <p>Placing a hot iron directly on sensitive fabrics can ruin garments, branding them with an unsightly singed and shiny mark. Protect them by ironing fabrics inside-out and with a pressing cloth as a buffer. A handkerchief or napkin will do.</p> <p><strong>4. Not misting clothes</strong></p> <p>This makes creases easier to eliminate. Many irons have an in-built spray function so you can lightly mist your clothes at the touch of a button. Alternatively, keep a water spray bottle handy.</p> <p><strong>5. Not using a starch spray</strong></p> <p>Starch sprays can speed up ironing and leave your clothes looking extra pristine – if you use them correctly. Spray the area right before you iron and leave it to penetrate for a few seconds. This will also save your iron’s base plate from a build-up of product residue. (You can make your own starch spray by dissolving one tablespoon of corn-flour in two cups of water.)</p> <p><strong>6. Not adjusting the temperature</strong></p> <p>If you have a large pile to tackle, start with your lightest silk, synthetic and delicate fabrics, as these need to be ironed on lower temperatures. Then, as your iron begins to heat up, iron your woollens on medium heat, and then cottons and linens that require a higher heat. Always let the iron sit for a few minutes after you adjust the temperature setting. Want to cut your ironing time in half? Place a sheet of aluminium foil underneath the ironing board cover. The reflected heat from the foil means you don’t have to flip over the garment and iron the other side.</p> <p><strong>7. Not paying attention to the form of the garment</strong></p> <p>For shirts, start with the sleeves (cuffs always open) and lay the collar flat (even though that’s not how you usually wear it), then let the shirt hang for a few minutes before putting it on. For trousers, iron along the main crease, stopping six inches below the waist, then hang by the waistband. And always iron skirts from the top down, unless there’s a flounce or flare, in which case, start from the bottom and work up. If you’re having to iron pleats, start from the bottom, working from the inside of the pleat to the outside. Then set it with a shot of steam.</p> <p><strong>8. Using circular strokes</strong></p> <p>Ironing in circles stretches the fabric. Always iron lengthwise.</p> <p><strong>9. Making a mess of sheets</strong></p> <p>Is there anything more annoying than ironing sheets, tablecloths and curtains? The trick is to set up two chairs next to the ironing board. Fold the piece onto the chairs as you work on it. You could also iron them on a tabletop you’re not too precious about, provided you protect the surface with a bath towel.</p> <p><strong>10. Not hanging up or folding as soon as you’re done</strong></p> <p>But make sure you wait five minutes before putting them on. You need to let the press set, otherwise you’ll be undoing all your hard work.</p> <p>Do you have any ironing secrets to share with us? Let us know in the comments below.</p> <p><em>Written by Kathleen Lee-Jo. First appeared on <a href="http://www.domain.com.au/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Domain.com.au</span></strong></a>.</em></p> <p><em>Image: Getty</em></p>

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Clothes women wanted to wear: a new exhibition explores how Carla Zampatti saw her designs as a tracker of feminism

<p>The late Carla Zampatti is celebrated in a splendid retrospective Zampatti Powerhouse at the Powerhouse Museum. Planned well before the fashion designer’s <a href="https://theconversation.com/how-carla-zampatti-pioneered-wearable-yet-cosmopolitan-clothes-for-women-and-became-a-fashion-icon-158377">untimely death</a> last year, the unveiling of her legacy will be bittersweet to her many fans. </p> <p>Zampatti is often referred to as “Carla” by friends and those who worked for her, rather than her brand name, Carla Zampatti. Here, the simple name “Zampatti” removes the emphasis from Zampatti as designer to a simpler assertion: businesswoman, mother, philanthropist-entrepreneur. </p> <p>It is a move as deft and elegant as the rest of the exhibition choices. </p> <p>In one of the best-looking fashion exhibition designs Australia has seen, creative director Tony Assness serves up a dynamic vision of clothes punctuated by a vibrant red (one of Zampatti’s favourite design choices) that encourages excitement and discovery. Clothes are arranged by themes – jumpsuit, jungle, graphic, blouson, power – rather than date.</p> <p>Curator Roger Leong leverages his years of experience to do a relatively new thing for Australian museums: tell the stories of clothes through the stories of women who wore them.</p> <h2>A migrant story</h2> <p>Zampatti’s story is an Australian migrant story. Born Maria Zampatti in Italy in 1938 (not 1942, as is often believed), she did not meet her father, who had migrated to Fremantle, until she was 11. </p> <p>In Australia, she was forced to change her name to Mary. It was claimed the other kids could not pronounce Maria. She did not finish school. When she moved to Sydney in her late 20s, she reinvented herself as Carla.</p> <p>The fashion business started on a kitchen table in 1965 under the label ZamPAtti. By 1970, Carla had bought out her business partner husband, and was sole owner of Carla Zampatti Pty Ltd. </p> <p>Zampatti flourished in fashion. She had a finger on the pulse, was in the right place at the right time, and knew a more glamorous role was possible for a fashion designer than the industry “rag trader”.</p> <p>In the 1970s, the markets suggested that the ultra-expensive haute couture was about to disappear, to be replaced by informal ranges created by a new type of designer often called a “stylist”. It was the decade of flower power, retro dressing and ethnic borrowings.</p> <p>Until the 1960s, fashion had been dominated by the rise of haute couture and the “dictator-designer” system – mainly men who determined hem lengths and silhouettes for women. But in 1973, the French body governing high fashion added a new layer of designers, créateurs (literally “creators” or designers), who produced only ready-to-wear. </p> <p>In 1972 Zampatti opened her first Sydney boutique, inspired by informal shops she had seen in St Tropez. Zampatti offered women bright jumpsuits, art deco looks and peasant-inspired ease.</p> <p>She aimed to provide women clothes they wanted to wear. She draped the cloth and colours on herself. Like many women designers historically, she was alert to how her clothes made women customers look and feel. Zampatti remained the fit model for the whole range and would not produce anything in which she did not look and feel well. </p> <p>Zampatti saw her “clothes as a tracker of feminism”.</p> <p>The 1980s cemented Zampatti’s rise to prominence. She became a household name, even designing a car for women. In this time, personal expression became more important than unified looks dictated by designers. Zampatti’s Australian designing coincided with a new development in Italy: the stylisti. Small, focused family businesses alert to the zeitgeist and understanding quality flourished. It was an approach that emphasised quality and glamour. </p> <p>Zampatti identified talent. She employed well-known couturier Beril Jents on the shop floor after she had fallen on hard times. She then employed Jents to improve the cut of her designs. </p> <p>Zampatti continued to embrace the services of stylists and other designers including Romance was Born, whom she recognised could take her work to the next level.</p> <h2>The stories of clothes</h2> <p>Worn equally by politicians and their circles on the right and the left, Zampatti injected more than power dressing into women’s wardrobes. She inspired a sense that women wore the clothes, not the clothes them. </p> <p>In this exhibition we are given many examples, from Linda Burney’s red pantsuit worn for her parliamentary portrait to a gown worn by Jennifer Morrison to the White House.</p> <p>The exhibition viewer can turn from serried ranks of brilliantly styled mannequins and enter large “listening pods”, screening brilliantly edited videos in the manner of artist Bill Viola. The women, who include Dame Quentin Bryce and Ita Buttrose, discuss the creative mind of Zampatti or reflect on their own Zampatti wardrobe. They are amongst the best such “talking heads” I have seen in a museum.</p> <p>Like many designers, Zampatti was not that interested in her own past. She did not keep substantial archives and records, which is a testament to the skills demonstrated by the museum in bringing us this show. </p> <p>Zampatti never turned her back on her personal story, but she was a futurist, one who looked forward rather than backward.</p> <p><em>Image credits: Getty Images</em></p> <p><em>This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/clothes-women-wanted-to-wear-a-new-exhibition-explores-how-carla-zampatti-saw-her-designs-as-a-tracker-of-feminism-194040" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>. </em></p>

Beauty & Style

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We know sweatshop clothing is bad – and buy it anyway. Here’s how your brain makes excuses

<p>You face a dilemma. You’ve found the perfect shirt, and it’s an absolute bargain, but you notice it’s “Made in Bangladesh”. You’re conscious it was probably made using cheap labour. Do you buy it, or walk away? </p> <p>Recently, Oxfam released its annual <a href="https://www.oxfam.org.au/what-she-makes/naughty-or-nice-2022/">Naughty or Nice</a> list. This list highlights retail brands committed to transparent sourcing, separating labour costs in price negations, and conducting a wage gap analysis to work towards paying workers a living wage.</p> <p>This list is one of several resources trying to encourage ethical consumption. Yet despite concerns of sweatshop labour, and consumers claiming they’re <a href="https://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978-981-10-2976-9_5">willing to pay more</a> for ethically-sourced clothes, there remains high demand for ultra-low-price mass-produced clothing.</p> <p>The explanation lies in a psychological phenomenon called <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/psychology/motivated-reasoning">motivated reasoning</a>. It explains how people convince themselves sweatshop labour is actually okay, as long as the product is desirable.</p> <h2>The many costs of low-priced apparel</h2> <p>Consumption is an individualistic act. It allows us to distinguish ourselves through our clothing, culture, and even the entertainment we consume. <a href="https://www.cairn.info/revue-rimhe-2016-5-page-45.htm">Ethical consumption</a> is when consumers consider the wider environmental and societal impacts of what they consume, including <a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/0267257X.2012.659280">when they purchase clothing</a>.</p> <p>Revenue from the global apparel market is expected to reach <a href="https://www.statista.com/topics/5091/apparel-market-worldwide/#topicHeader__wrapper">US$2 trillion</a> (about A$3 trillion) by 2026. Asia remains the garment factory of the world. It accounts for 55% of global textiles and clothing exports, and employs some <a href="https://www.ilo.org/asia/media-centre/news/WCMS_848238/lang--en/index.htm">60 million workers</a>. </p> <p>And the International Labour Organisation has estimated <a href="https://www.ilo.org/wcmsp5/groups/public/---ed_norm/---ipec/documents/publication/wcms_797515.pdf">160 million children</a>aged 5 to 17 were engaged in child labour at the beginning of 2020 – many of which would have worked in the fashion supply chain.</p> <h2>Isn’t any job better than no job?</h2> <p>A common defence by manufacturers that use exploitative labour arrangements is that such work is often <a href="https://scholar.uwindsor.ca/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1008&amp;context=csspe">the best option available</a> for those workers. Workers voluntarily accept the conditions, and their employment helps with <a href="https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s12122-006-1006-z">long-term economic development</a>. </p> <p>At the same time, emerging research argues sweatshops are the <a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1177/0950017020926372">result of consumer choice</a>, wherein retailers are simply responding to a demand for ultra-low-price fashion. This infers that if there was no demand, there would be no sweatshops.</p> <p>But one problem with holding consumers responsible is that the vast majority aren’t aware of how their clothes are made. Despite “supply chain transparency” being credited for increasing <a href="https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/cb.1852">brand legitimacy and trust</a>, true transparency is <a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/10304312.2021.1993575?scroll=top&amp;needAccess=true">difficult to attain</a>, even for retailers, due to the disjointed and <a href="https://www.forbes.com/sites/forbestechcouncil/2022/03/18/why-fashion-supply-chain-traceability-is-a-tech-challenge-that-begins-with-ai/?sh=362e093d5f6d">distant elements</a> of how products move through the supply chain (which includes suppliers, producers, manufacturers, distributors and retailers).</p> <p>Our own <a href="https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/JFMM-06-2021-0158/full/html">research</a> into consumers’ perception of worker welfare found people struggle to connect the $5 shirt they bought with the person who made it, or how it was made.</p> <h2>Motivated reasoning</h2> <p>Oxfam’s Naughty or Nice list aims to name (and essentially shame) retail brands that fail to disclose which factories they source product from, and how they manage sourcing integrity. The logic is that if consumers are aware of which brands disclose their ethical sourcing strategies, then they’ll make more informed purchase decisions. </p> <p>Unfortunately, it’s not that simple. Our brains are wired to arrive at conclusions we prefer, as long as we maintain an <a href="https://psycnet.apa.org/fulltext/1991-06436-001.pdf?auth_token=dfa958470d287abcbf517c0362958f295e8fff44">illusion of objectivity</a>. And we do this even when the evidence is contrary to our beliefs.</p> <p>A person can consider themselves an ethical consumer (which forms part of their “<a href="https://positivepsychology.com/self-concept/">self-concept</a>”) and still buy a $5 shirt, though they suspect it may have been made in a sweatshop. They may tell themselves “any job is better than no job” for workers, or “money saved today is money to spend on the children tomorrow”. In doing so they convince themselves they have objectively considered the purchase.</p> <p>The <a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1509/jmkr.45.6.633">theory of self-concept</a> explains how consumers can justify the “ethical burden” away. It also suggests people use higher-order thinking to rationalise and <a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1207/s15327957pspr0303_3">justify personal transgressions</a>.</p> <p>Most of us are so distant from supply chain exploitation, and so hooked on scoring a bargain, that seeing a list of “naughty” retail brands won’t change our behaviour. </p> <h2>Evidence of motivated reasoning</h2> <p>Researchers have studied how we use motivated reasoning to arrive at <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0749597813000149">more preferable outcomes</a> that help protect our self-concept.</p> <p>In one experiment they examined whether participants would use economic justifications (such as “any job is better than no job”) to book a Caribbean holiday at a resort associated with questionable labour practices. They found participants were likely to rationalise their choice and take the holiday despite claims of exploitative working conditions. </p> <p>In a second study they explored the link between justifications for sweatshop labour and product desirability. As predicted, economic justifications were higher for highly desirable sweatshop-made shoes. Other studies have found motivated reasoning being employed to justify <a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/0146167299025001003">keeping overpayments</a> and <a href="https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10551-017-3698-9">self-allocating annual bonuses</a>, among <a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/17524032.2014.932817">other examples</a>. </p> <h2>How can you shop more ethically?</h2> <p>The bottom line is ethical consumption must be internally motivated. The good news is once you have this motivation, there are a number of resources to help you. </p> <p><strong>Knowledge is power</strong></p> <p>Oxfam’s Naughty or Nice report, Clean Clothes’ <a href="https://cleanclothes.org/campaigns/the-accord/brand-tracker">Brand Tracker</a>, <a href="https://www.fairwear.org/">Fair Wear</a>, <a href="https://goodonyou.eco/about/">Good On You</a>, and Fashion Revolution’s <a href="https://www.fashionrevolution.org/about/transparency/">Fashion Transparency Index</a> are all great resources to identify which brands disclose their social policies, practices, and impacts in their operations and supply chain. </p> <p><strong>Brand accreditations</strong></p> <p>Most brands will disclose if they have their ethical credentials certified by organisations such as <a href="https://ethicalclothingaustralia.org.au/about/">Ethical Clothing Australia</a>, <a href="https://www.wrapcompliance.org/">WRAP</a> or <a href="https://www.fairtrade.net/about/certification">Fairtrade International</a>. These <a href="https://ethicalclothingaustralia.org.au/steps-to-accreditation/">accreditations</a> generally involve a rigorous process of independent eligibility tests, compliance with guidelines and external annual audits.</p> <p><strong>Self-reporting</strong></p> <p>Many leading brands provide their policies on ethical sourcing and slave labour online (see <a href="https://www.kmart.com.au/modernslavery/">Kmart and Target</a> and <a href="https://www.wesfarmers.com.au/docs/default-source/sustainability/sustainability-documents/2108261641-wesfarmers-approach-to-human-rights.pdf?sfvrsn=237912bb_20#xd_co_f=ODY2ZWYyMGYtMDY4My00ZmQ1LTg4NmEtNjBjOTM0YmFhM2Nm%7E">Wesfamers</a>). Make sure the claims are made in accordance with reporting requirements from <a href="https://www.homeaffairs.gov.au/criminal-justice/Pages/modern-slavery.aspx">Australia’s Modern Slavery Act 2018</a>.</p> <p><em>Image credits: Getty Images</em></p> <p><em>This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/we-know-sweatshop-clothing-is-bad-and-buy-it-anyway-heres-how-your-brain-makes-excuses-192944" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>. </em></p>

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Victorian man’s anti-Dan Andrews plates deemed “offensive” by government

<p dir="ltr">A Victorian man could lose his personalised number plates referencing Premier Daniel Andrews after the state government’s transport body said they had deemed them to be “offensive” and “inappropriate”.</p> <p dir="ltr">In September, Peter Dunlevie received plates that read, “DANOUT”, from VicRoads and attached them to his 2003 Commodore ahead of the state election on November 23.</p> <p dir="ltr">“Well, I want Andrews gone,” he told <em>7NEWS</em>.</p> <p dir="ltr">“I’m just sick of him.”</p> <p><span id="docs-internal-guid-907adc51-7fff-b3f2-85a0-ade8c73e54ba"></span></p> <p dir="ltr">The plates are accompanied by other anti-Andrews messages, including stickers reading, “Save Victoria” and “SACK ANDREWS”.</p> <p dir="ltr"><img src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/2022/11/danout1.jpg" alt="" width="880" height="495" /></p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Peter Dunlevie attached plates reading ‘DANOUT’ to his white Commodore. Image: 7NEWS</em></p> <p dir="ltr">However, VicRoads has since written to the Gippsland man and told him to return the plates, writing that the plates are “negative”, “offensive” and “inappropriate”.</p> <p dir="ltr">“A review of our records has identified that the combination ‘DANOUT’ has specific negative references, and may be considered offensive by the broader community,” the letter read.</p> <p dir="ltr">Dunlevie has questioned VicRoads’ assessment of the plates, telling the news outlet that it’s just “a bit of fun”.</p> <p dir="ltr">“What’s offensive about them?” he said.</p> <p dir="ltr">“This is just an old bloke having a bit of fun.”</p> <p dir="ltr">While VicRoads has the authority to cancel personalised plates, Dunlevie said he felt like the transport authority was “trying to gag me”.</p> <p dir="ltr">Following the letter from VicRoads, the state’s Department of Transport has begun a review into the decision to remove the plates from Dunlevie.</p> <p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-2976ccdd-7fff-1b07-2086-9bc20f7378ca"></span></p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Image: 7NEWS</em></p>

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Andrew Gaze slams Gina Rinehart for not condemning her father's offensive comments

<p>Basketball legend Andrew Gaze has slammed millionaire mining magnate Gina Rinehart for failing to condemn her father's past comments about Indigenous Australians. </p> <p>The fallout of a $15 million Netball Australia partnership with Rinehart’s Hancock Prospecting stems from comments made by Gina's father, Lang Hancock, in the 1980s.</p> <p>Hancock Prospecting backed out on the lucrative partnership on Saturday, leaving the sporting organisation on the brink of financial ruin.</p> <p>Indigenous player Donnell Wallam was said to be uncomfortable wearing a uniform with the company’s logo after Hancock made the offensive comments in the 1984 documentary <em>Couldn’t be Fairer</em>, eight years before his death.</p> <p>“Those that have been assimilated into earning good living and earning wages among the civilised areas and have been accepted into society and can handle society, I’d leave them well alone,” he said at the time.</p> <p>“The ones that are no good to themselves … I would dope the water up so that they were sterile and would breed themselves out in the future, and that would solve the problem.”</p> <p>Now, Andrew Gaze has come out swinging against Rinehart, calling for her to distance herself from the damaging comments. </p> <p>“She (Gina Rinehart) could have apologised for her father’s comments, distanced herself from them and told us that she doesn’t believe those things. Instead, she pulled her money out,” he said.</p> <p>“I am not blaming Gina Rinehart for her father’s comments, but what I don’t understand is why she won’t very publicly disassociate herself from them,” Gaze said on SEN The Run Home.</p> <p>“(She should say), ‘I love my dad, but (that was wrong)’."</p> <p>“If my dad had said that, or if my uncle, or anyone associated with me, or if my friend said it, (I would say), ‘I love this person, I’m still going to love him, but I’m going to educate him, I’m going to say, no, that is not the right way to deal with that issue, it is actually vile what you’ve said’.”</p> <p>“If you can’t reconsider that, then I’m going to question our friendship, if you’re going to maintain that view, then you’re not a friend of mine."</p> <p>While a string of right-wing politicians have called out the netball team for being ungrateful, everyday Aussies have wondered why Rinehart is staying silent. </p> <p>“If I can be held accountable for the actions of every South Sudanese person in Australia, then Gina Rinehart can acknowledge the actions of the man she inherited her fortune from,” wrote Melbourne-based South Sudanese artist, Atong Atem.</p> <p>“It would amount to ABSOLUTELY nothing without action. Literally folks are asking her to do good PR via empty gesture but it’s only fair.”</p> <p><em>Image credits: Getty Images</em></p>

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Short shift: Fashion week research on how the ’60s and ’70s rocked Australia’s clothing industry

<div class="copy"> <p>It was the dress that shocked a nation and signalled an industrial revolution.</p> <p>When sixties model Jean Shrimpton attended the 1965 Melbourne Cup dressed in a simple white shift hemmed well above the knee – with no gloves or stockings – the outfit immediately sparked scandal.</p> <p>The moment encapsulates a series of cultural, social, economic and technological shifts underway in Australia which led to the unravelling of the local clothing manufacturing industry.</p> <p>It was this iconic photo, depicting nonchalant Shrimpton on the lawns of Flemington Racecourse, which inspired Pauline Hastings PhD research at Monash University into the history of Australia’s textiles and clothing industry from the 1960s on.</p> <p>Hastings is <a href="https://mfw.melbourne.vic.gov.au/event/miniskirts-the-unravelling-rag-trade/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">presenting her research</a> as part of Melbourne Fashion Week.</p> <p>A lesser-known detail about ‘that dress’: Shrimpton was sponsored to attend Derby Day by industrial chemical and fossil fuel company Du Pont, to promote the company’s new synthetic fabric, Orlon. </p> <p>Cheap, mostly imported synthetic fabrics (made from fossil fuels) were one of several factors contributing to a major shift in Australian clothing manufacturing and consumption, Hastings says.</p> <p>Hastings says, there is a clear thread linking the rise of synthetic fabrics like Orlon, Dacron, Rayon (… anything ending with an ‘on’), which had a throwaway quality to them, and today’s <a href="https://cosmosmagazine.com/earth/sustainability/fast-fashion-part-one/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">fast fashion addiction</a>. Australia is the second largest consumer of textiles globally, buying on average <a href="https://www.monash.edu/msdi/news-and-events/news/articles/2022/urgent-call-to-reduce-australias-sizeable-fashion-footprint-and-its-impact-on-planetary-and-human-health" target="_blank" rel="noopener">56 new items of clothing </a>per person, per year.</p> <p>Post war immigration and the rise of the ‘baby boomers’ led to a greater emphasis on youth culture and individualism. </p> <p>This, together with the rise of advertising and mass marketing helped drive a cultural shift away from the ‘make do and mend’ era where fabrics and clothing were often unpicked and re-sewn into new garments. </p> <p>Hastings says the removal and reduction of tariff protections was another contributing factor to the demise of local manufacturing.</p> <p>Before the post-war era, “everyday clothes weren’t imported. They were manufactured here … made for local consumption,” she says.</p> <p>“Imports on mass were kept out by tariff protection. So, very high tariffs on anything important [which] meant that if they did come in, imports were sort of priced considerably higher in the marketplace than our local product. And our local product was not overly cheap from what I can gather, because it was pretty,  labor intensive and Australian wages at the time were quite high.”</p> <p>Interwoven, these different factors – the commodification of youth culture, the reduction in tariff protections by the Whitlam government, and the rise of new synthetic fabrics – all contributed to the demise of Australia’s local clothing manufacturing industry.</p> <p>Today, 97% of Australia’s clothing is imported.</p> <p>By sharing her research, Hastings says, she hopes we can learn from history.</p> <p>“It’s how culturally we can shift. Because, we did a major shift from the post war era of what I call ‘thrift and making do.’ We did a major shift then to a sort of a ‘purchase everything we can possibly see throwaway society’ when it comes to fashion, in a couple of decades.” </p> <p>She says, history shows, if we really wanted to, we could learn again, to value things, recycle, upcycle and cultivate a culture of sustainability.</p> <p><em>Image credits: Getty Images</em></p> <p><em><!-- Start of tracking content syndication. Please do not remove this section as it allows us to keep track of republished articles --> <img id="cosmos-post-tracker" style="opacity: 0; height: 1px!important; width: 1px!important; border: 0!important; position: absolute!important; z-index: -1!important;" src="https://syndication.cosmosmagazine.com/?id=217818&amp;title=Short+shift%3A+Fashion+week+research+on+how+the+%26%238217%3B60s+and+%26%238217%3B70s+rocked+Australia%26%238217%3Bs+clothing+industry" width="1" height="1" /> <!-- End of tracking content syndication --></em></div> <div id="contributors"> <p><em>This article was originally published on <a href="https://cosmosmagazine.com/people/how-the-60s-rocked-australian-fashion/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">cosmosmagazine.com</a> and was written by Petra Stock. </em></p> </div>

Beauty & Style

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3 major toxins have been found in popular clothing brands – here’s what to know

<p><strong>The rise of fast fashion</strong></p> <p>Fast fashion may cycle through trends at the speed of light – but it certainly has staying power. As PC Magazine reported this past July, the online retailer Shein dethroned Amazon as the most popular shopping app in the world. But the meteoric rise of some comparable fashion brands is troubling some health experts. In 2021, a team of researchers at the University of Toronto ran tests on some popular clothing and accessories brands. For one fast fashion brand in particular, they found that one in every five items contained unsafe levels of lead.</p> <p>And it’s not just fast fashion – or, just lead – that is prompting concern about unsuspected toxins in our everyday products. The University of Toronto report also identified another group of chemicals, called phthalates, that the researchers stated were present in some of the clothing they tested. Plus, earlier this year, Environmental Protection Agency-certified labs detected PFAs (per- and polyfluorinated substances) in activewear from popular consumer brands that also may contain PFAS, according to the non-profit consumer organisation Fashion FWD.</p> <p>From cosmetics and soaps to plastic bottles and even our food, we’re surrounded by chemicals in our daily lives. But just how much should we worry about the chemicals lurking in our clothes?</p> <p><strong>Why are chemicals used in clothes?</strong></p> <p>As Dr Kelly Johnson-Arbor, a medical toxicology physician explains: “Fast fashion clothing is often manufactured in developing countries that may not have stringent standards for keeping harmful chemicals out of clothing.”</p> <p>This means that almost all of the clothing items in our closets and drawers are more or less unregulated, meaning we’re relying on retailers to self-police their factories’ chemical usage. And according to the 2021 Fashion Revolution Transparency Index, only 26% of the world’s major clothing brands use a “Manufacturing Restricted Substances List,” which aims to eliminate hazardous chemicals in their factories.</p> <p>But why are hazardous chemicals used in clothing in the first place? Let’s look at three of the main fashion offenders:</p> <p><strong>Lead</strong> is often used by manufacturers for dyeing fabrics – particularly those that are brightly coloured, says Trevor Cates, ND, a naturopathic physician and author of the September 2022 book, Natural Beauty Reset.</p> <p><strong>PFAS</strong> generally turn up in clothing items as a coating to make products waterproof, stain-resistant and breathable, according to a study by the Colorado Public Interest Research Group.</p> <p><strong>Phthalates</strong> work to soften plastic and make it more durable, and so they’re sometimes spun into fabrics to make them soft and pliable, according to the Office of Science and Society at McGill University. They’re also common in waterproof items like rain jackets, faux leather, screen-printed t-shirts, and see-through accessories, like clear shoes, bags and umbrellas.</p> <p><strong>How do fashion chemicals affect your health?</strong></p> <p>The goal of the 1978 ban on leaded paint was implemented to prevent accidental lead ingestion, such as from kids putting paint chips in their mouths or inhaling lead-containing dust. “Lead is definitely associated with adverse health effects – including developmental delays,” Dr Johnson-Arbor explains.</p> <p>A 2018 study published in Environmental Science and Pollution Research International illustrated what can happen even if lead is not consumed by mouth. The study suggested that chemicals from clothing can transfer to, penetrate and accumulate in our skin. (The study authors noted that more research was needed for a closer analysis of each specific hazardous chemical of concern.) However, a 2019 peer-reviewed study looked specifically at phthalates in infant clothing and found that clothing does play an important role in exposure to textile chemicals.</p> <p><strong>Lead</strong></p> <p>“Lead is a heavy metal,” Dr Cates says. “And what happens with heavy metals is that our body takes them up and stores them in our bones, our blood and our tissues.” So, while exposure to high levels of lead is dangerous (lead poisoning can cause anaemia, weakness, kidney failure, brain damage and death, according to the Centers of Disease Control and Prevention – prolonged, low-grade exposure can grow problematic.</p> <p>As lead stores up in our bodies, chronic symptoms can start to emerge, Dr Cates explains. These may include abdominal pain, constipation, forgetfulness, nausea, and depression. “Lead in particular has been connected to infertility,” she adds. The CDC says that people with long-term exposure to lead are also at a greater risk for high blood pressure, kidney disease, and heart disease.</p> <p>These symptoms can also worsen with age – especially for women. When oestrogen levels drop after menopause, bones can start to deteriorate, Dr Cates says. “The lead that’s stored in the bones will then start to be released in the bloodstream, it’s like you become toxic all over again.”</p> <p><strong>PFAS</strong></p> <p>“These are known as ‘forever chemicals,’” Dr Cates says. “They persist in the environment, and they also don’t easily get out of the human body.”</p> <p>PFAS are also considered “endocrine-disrupting chemicals” because they can mimic hormones in the body – and they’re extremely common in our lives.</p> <p>Dr Cates says that since the use of PFAS became so widespread, signs of hormonal imbalances are on the rise: greater rates of thyroid disease, breast and prostate cancer, breast development in young boys and the number of women having menstrual problems.</p> <p>The CDC adds that current research suggests high levels of PFAS exposure may also cause high cholesterol, low infant birth weight, changes in liver enzymes, increased risk of pre-eclampsia (high blood pressure) in pregnant women, decreased vaccine response in children and an increased risk of kidney and testicular cancer.</p> <p><strong>Phthalates</strong></p> <p>Phthalates are another group of endocrine-disrupting chemicals. While Dr Johnson-Arbor emphasises there is still plenty to learn about the health effects of phthalates (and PFAS), a 2022 review of research found strong evidence that phthalate exposure is associated with low semen quality, childhood asthma and neurodevelopment problems. The researchers said that there’s also moderate evidence that phthalates can increase the risk of low infant birth weight, endometriosis, low testosterone, ADHD, Type 2 diabetes, and breast or uterine cancer.</p> <p><strong>How to shop safely</strong></p> <p>You can’t sell a $4 t-shirt without cutting some health and safety corners, so Dr Cates’ main recommendation to limit your chemical exposure is to avoid fast fashion retailers altogether. Look for sustainable brands that prioritise natural fabrics and materials, such as cotton, linen, hemp, silk or bamboo. And keep a lookout for chemical keywords such as “stain-resistant,” “waterproof,” and “shrink-proof.”</p> <p>“Since lead is most harmful to young children, people can avoid dressing their infants and children in fast fashion clothing to avoid childhood exposures,” adds Dr Johnson-Arbor. “I am most concerned with children’s potential exposure to these chemicals, specifically lead.”</p> <p><em>Image credits: Getty Images</em></p> <p><em>This article originally appeared on <a href="https://www.readersdigest.com.au/healthsmart/3-major-toxins-have-been-found-in-popular-clothing-brands-heres-what-to-know" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Reader's Digest</a>. </em></p>

Beauty & Style

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To make our wardrobes sustainable, we must cut how many new clothes we buy by 75%

<p>If things don’t change fast, the fashion industry <a href="https://www.stockholmresilience.org/download/18.66e0efc517643c2b8103605/1617805679501/Sustainable%20Textiles%20Synthesis%20Report.pdf">could</a> use a quarter of the world’s remaining global carbon budget to keep warming under 2℃ by 2050, and use 35% more land to produce fibres by 2030. </p> <p>While this seems incredible, it’s not. Over the past 15 years, clothing production <a href="https://archive.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/explore/fashion-and-the-circular-economy">has doubled</a> while the length of time we actually wear these clothes has fallen by nearly 40%. In the EU, falling prices have seen people buying <a href="https://www.eea.europa.eu/publications/textiles-in-europes-circular-economy">more clothing</a> than ever before while spending less money in the process.</p> <p>This is not sustainable. Something has to give. In our <a href="https://eeb.org/library/wellbeing-wardrobe-a-wellbeing-economy-for-the-fashion-and-textile-sector-summary">recent report</a>, we propose the idea of a wellbeing wardrobe, a new way forward for fashion in which we favour human and environmental wellbeing over ever-growing consumption of throwaway fast-fashion. </p> <p>What would that look like? It would mean each of us cutting how many new clothes we buy by as much as <a href="https://katefletcher.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Earth-Logic-plan-FINAL.pdf">75%</a>, buying clothes designed to last, and recycling clothes at the end of their lifetime. </p> <p>For the sector, it would mean tackling low incomes for the people who make the clothes, as well as support measures for workers who could lose jobs during a transition to a more sustainable industry.</p> <h2>Sustainability efforts by industry are simply not enough</h2> <p>Fashion is accelerating. Fast fashion is being replaced by <a href="https://amp.theguardian.com/fashion/2021/dec/21/how-shein-beat-amazon-at-its-own-game-and-reinvented-fast-fashion">ultra-fast fashion</a>, releasing unprecedented volumes of new clothes into the market. </p> <p>Since the start of the year, fast fashion giants H&amp;M and Zara have launched <a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/retail/why-shein-might-be-worth-100-billion-in-four-charts">around 11,000 new styles</a> combined. </p> <p>Over the same time, ultra-fast fashion brand Shein has released a staggering 314,877 styles. Shein is currently the <a href="https://www.abc.net.au/news/2022-04-05/shein-is-the-new-darling-of-china-s-fast-fashion-industry-but-at/100964524">most popular shopping app in Australia</a>. As you’d expect, this acceleration is producing a tremendous amount of waste.</p> <p>In response, the fashion industry has devised a raft of plans to tackle the issue. The problem is many sustainability initiatives still place economic opportunity and growth before environmental concerns. </p> <p>Efforts such as switching to more sustainable fibres and textiles and offering ethically-conscious options are commendable. Unfortunately, they do very little to actually confront the sector’s rapidly increasing consumption of resources and waste generation.</p> <p>On top of this, <a href="https://cleanclothes.org/news">labour rights abuses</a> of workers in the supply chain are rife. </p> <p>Over the past five years, the industry’s issues of child labour, discrimination and forced labour have worsened globally. Major garment manufacturing countries including Myanmar, Cambodia, Bangladesh and Vietnam are considered an <a href="https://www.maplecroft.com/insights/analysis/worldwide-decline-in-labour-rights-strikes-at-heart-of-global-supply-chains/">“extreme risk”</a> for modern slavery. </p> <p>Here’s what we can do to tackle the situation. </p> <h2>1. Limit resource use and consumption</h2> <p>We need to have serious conversations between industry, consumers and governments about limiting resource use in the fashion industry. As a society, we need to talk about how much clothing <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2214629620304564?via%3Dihub">is enough</a> to live well. </p> <p>On an individual level, it means buying fewer new clothes, as well as reconsidering where we get our clothes from. Buying secondhand clothes or using rental services are ways of changing your wardrobe with lower impact. </p> <h2>2. Expand the slow fashion movement</h2> <p>The growing <a href="https://slowfashion.global/">slow fashion movement</a> focuses on the quality of garments over quantity, and favours classic styles over fleeting trends.</p> <p>We must give renewed attention to repairing and caring for clothes we already own to extend their lifespan, such as by reviving sewing, mending and other long-lost skills.</p> <h2>3. New systems of exchange</h2> <p>The wellbeing wardrobe would mean shifting away from existing fashion business models and embracing new systems of exchange, such as collaborative consumption models, co-operatives, not-for-profit social enterprises and <a href="https://www.bcorporation.net/en-us/certification">B-corps</a>. </p> <p>What are these? Collaborative consumption models involve sharing or renting clothing, while social enterprises and B-corps are businesses with purposes beyond making a profit, such as ensuring living wages for workers and minimising or eliminating environmental impacts.</p> <p>There are also methods that don’t rely on money, such as swapping or borrowing clothes with friends and altering or redesigning clothes in repair cafes and sewing circles. </p> <h2>4. Diversity in clothing cultures</h2> <p>Finally, as consumers we must nurture a diversity of clothing cultures, including incorporating the knowledge of <a href="https://www.russh.com/creator-of-australian-indigenous-fashion-yatu-widders-hunt-on-telling-stories-and-the-future-of-fashion/">Indigenous fashion design</a>, which has respect for the environment at its core. </p> <p>Communities of exchange should be encouraged to recognise the cultural value of clothing, and to rebuild emotional connections with garments and support long-term use and care.</p> <h2>What now?</h2> <p>Shifting fashion from a perpetual growth model to a sustainable approach will not be easy. Moving to a post-growth fashion industry would require policymakers and the industry to bring in a wide range of reforms, and re-imagine roles and responsibilities in society. </p> <p>You might think this is too hard. But the status quo of constant growth cannot last. </p> <p>It’s better we act to shape the future of fashion and work towards a wardrobe good for people and planet – rather than let a tidal wave of wasted clothing soak up resources, energy and our very limited carbon budget.</p> <p><em>Image credits: Getty Images</em></p> <p><em>This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/to-make-our-wardrobes-sustainable-we-must-cut-how-many-new-clothes-we-buy-by-75-179569" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>. </em></p>

Beauty & Style

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6 tips for doing laundry on a cruise

<p>As unfortunate as it may be, laundry is likely the only sign of reality to ever rear its ugly head during a cruise vacation otherwise filled with escape.</p> <p>Thankfully, there are ways to reduce the pains associated with dirty clothes, and we've compiled some suggestions to consider here.</p> <p><strong>1. Choose a cabin with included service</strong></p> <p>If you require laundry to be done onboard but would rather not tend to it yourself, the best approach would be to choose a cabin category that features free laundry service as an included amenity. This is more common of suites such as the Penthouse Junior Suite and above on Viking Ocean Cruises. In fact, Viking and Oceania Cruises are even addressing the aforementioned cruise length issue by providing free laundry to guests aboard their world cruises regardless of stateroom selection.</p> <p><strong>2. Buy a package</strong></p> <p>Of course, dirty clothes can also always be sent out during the cruise to have the ship launder them for you, but a la carte prices can be expensive. In those situations, you might consider an unlimited package wherein a daily rate is paid to be able to send out laundry ad infinitum. Holland America Line is one such company to offer this option.</p> <p><strong>3. Wait for a special</strong></p> <p>If you can wait to have your laundry done until later in the cruise, specials sometimes become available along the lines of a single price for a bag of laundry? However many clothes you can fit within a bag will be cleaned for a flat cost. Celebrity Cruises, for one, has run such specials in the past.</p> <p><strong>4. Take the paid or included self-service route</strong></p> <p>If all else fails, many cruise lines offer self-service laundry facilities to do it yourself. To save some money, consider which brands offer laundromats for free and which charge extra for the machines and detergent. Carnival Cruise Line, for instance, charges for both while Cunard Line is entirely free.</p> <p><strong>5. Be mindful of laundromat high times</strong></p> <p>If you are going to use a laundromat, keep busy times in mind, especially if the facilities are free and consequently more frequented. They tend to be bustling right at opening and most on sea days. If you can stay onboard during a port call, the machines will be easier to get to. Meanwhile, please be mindful of other passengers too and don't leave machines unattended for extended periods of time, thus requiring other guests to remove your laundry for you.</p> <p><strong>6. Pack enough clothes for the duration</strong></p> <p>The simplest solution to not dealing with laundry in any capacity during your cruise is to pack enough clean clothes for the entire length of the sailing. Of course, this may be easier said than done as airline baggage weight limits restrict how much you can bring along without astronomical added fees. This can be done simply enough for a weeklong or shorter cruise but those longer ones requiring additional formal wear make it a tad tougher.</p> <p>What’s your approach to laundry on a cruise? Or when you’re on holidays in general. Let us know in the comments section, we’d love to hear from you.</p> <p><em>Written by Jason Leppert. First appeared on <a href="http://Stuff.co.nz" target="_blank"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Stuff.co.nz</span></strong></a>.</em></p> <p><em><strong>No matter where you’re travelling to, making sure you know how to access your cash while away – and in the most affordable way – is very important. Easy to use and with countless benefits, the Over60 Cash Passport allows you to securely access your cash in the same way you use an ATM or credit card­. <a href="https://oversixty.cashpassport.com.au" target="_blank"><span style="text-decoration: underline;">To apply for a card today, click here.</span></a></strong></em></p> <p><strong>Related links:</strong></p> <p><a href="/travel/cruising/2016/10/10-ways-to-cruise-as-a-senior/"><strong><em><span style="text-decoration: underline;">10 ways to cruise as a senior</span></em></strong></a></p> <p><a href="/travel/cruising/2016/10/how-to-determine-your-cruising-style/"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><em><strong>How to determine your cruising style</strong></em></span></a></p> <p><a href="/travel/cruising/2016/09/just-how-much-food-is-eaten-on-a-cruise/"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><em><strong>Just how much food is eaten on a cruise?</strong></em></span></a></p>

Cruising

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8 clever ways to use a single sock

<p>If you often end up with odd socks after doing the washing, you’ll be pleased to know that they can find a new use around the house.</p> <p><strong>1. Protect shoes</strong></p> <p>Keep your shoes stored inside socks when you are packing your suitcase. Not only will this keep high heels or dress shoes in better condition, it will also protect your clothes from any mud on the soles of your running shoes.</p> <p><strong>2. Keep your wardrobe fresh</strong></p> <p>Fill a sock with dry coffee grounds, tie a knot in the top, and hang it up in your wardrobe. It will absorb any musty smells from the area.</p> <p><strong>3. Buff and shine your car</strong></p> <p>A sock works better than a rag to wax the car, as you can slip your hand inside and use it like a cleaning glove.</p> <p><strong>4. Remove spider webs</strong></p> <p>Slip a sock over your broom and use it to get rid of hard to reach cobwebs - without ruining your broom.</p> <p><strong>5. Keep your mobile safe</strong></p> <p>If you’re going camping, hiking, or doing some work outdoors you can protect your phone by storing it in a sock in your pocket.</p> <p><strong>6. Remove dust from indoor plants</strong></p> <p>Place a sock on your hand and sprinkle a little water on it. Use it to buff and shine the leaves of your indoor plants.</p> <p><strong>7. Use socks for moving breakables</strong></p> <p>When packing to move house, slip anything in a sock that you’re worried about getting broken or scratched. Think small vases or glass salt and peppershakers.</p> <p><strong>8. Get rid of dust from the blinds</strong></p> <p>Dampen a sock and place on your hand to get rid of dirt and dust from blinds.</p> <p>Have we missed any great uses for a sock that you would like to share with us in the comments below?</p> <p><strong>Related links:</strong></p> <p><a href="/lifestyle/home-garden/2016/06/remove-wrinkles-from-clothes-no-iron/"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><em><strong>How to remove wrinkles from your clothes without an iron</strong></em></span></a></p> <p><a href="/lifestyle/home-garden/2016/06/the-secret-to-keeping-your-whites-white/"><em><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>The secret to keeping your whites white</strong></span></em></a></p> <p><a href="/lifestyle/home-garden/2016/05/8-top-laundry-tricks/"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><em><strong>8 tricks that will change the way you do laundry forever</strong></em></span></a></p>

Home & Garden

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Mum’s fool-proof hack to dry your clothes in half the time

<p dir="ltr">A clever mum has shared the ultimate laundry tip that will ensure your clothes air-dry in no time. </p> <p dir="ltr">With surging energy bills crippling households, air drying items is a much more efficient way of doing laundry. </p> <p dir="ltr">However, colder winter months can sometimes mean clothes and linen may take days to dry in the fresh air. </p> <p dir="ltr">One mum has found the answer to this problem, sharing her hack on the Facebook page <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/mumswhoclean">Mums Who Clean</a>. </p> <p dir="ltr">"I have recently been staying with my elderly parents. While there, I did some washing for them," she says. </p> <p dir="ltr">"Mum said to me, 'Don't forget to do an additional spin cycle after the cycle has finished.'”</p> <p dir="ltr">"Her response was that it wouldn't take as long for the washing to dry on a cold winter's day when there isn't as much sun.”</p> <p dir="ltr">"And guess what, she was right!"</p> <p dir="ltr">The mum tried it for herself when she got home, saying it helped to dry her clothes in half the time.</p> <p dir="ltr">"Since returning home this week to Sydney and the rain, I tried this on a load of towels (bath sheets) before putting them in the dryer," she says.</p> <p dir="ltr">"Normally, the load would take one and a half to two hours to dry, and they took just under 60 minutes."</p> <p dir="ltr">Other group members were impressed with the hack, with many saying they would give it a go. </p> <p dir="ltr">"Oh wow, I'm going to give this a go!" said one person. </p> <p dir="ltr">Others said they’ve been doing this hack “for years”, and were happy others were going to try the handy tip. </p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Image credits: Getty Images</em></p>

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